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I'm not sure why it would only overflow when it's not running. It's like when you turn the steering wheel, the steering gear is acting like a pump and forcing the fluid back into the reservoir. Maybe some kind of check valve or relief valve isn't working or something?

When cold, it should be a little below the neck. The fluid expands a lot and will overflow if overfilled.

Usually the last number of the DOT code is the last number of the year, but they used to only give you one number. Newer tires show the year as the last two digits.

I just want to add that we have 4 of those cars and the speedometers read high on all of them, between 10 and 20 mph. Sure tire size will affect indicated speed, but 20 mph seems excessive. If the odometer is accurate for the most part and the speedometer is off, then I would assume the...

I would not recommend charging your a/c with any flammable gas.

I thought Chrysler always had the best setup for the keys. They were made for a valet. He/she could open/lock the doors and start the car, but could not get into the trunk or glove compartment unless they had the round key. Genius. Ford and GM did not have have this genius feature.

Also make sure you replaced the turn signal flasher module and not the hazard flasher module. They're in two different places under the dash and they are two different types of flashers.

There's one type of oil that will work for either. It might be the one mentioned above. That's probably the safest option.

Cool!

I think you can get this in a hardware store. It's just regular weatherstripping. Just find the same material.

Does it have a good bulb in it? If you can get it to light up it might help you figure out where it goes. Or, does it just light up when the door is open and go out when it's closed? The ignition switch lamp had a timer. Or does it go on only with the headlights? These would all be clues to...

Is it the ignition switch backlight? If so it plugs into the ignition switch somehow.

That panel was broken on our '68 New Yorker when we got it in '71. Good luck finding a good one. I'd be curious to know if the '67 piece can be used on a '68. If it's metal, it'd probably last forever and could be painted to match the plastic ones.

One thing I don't understand, I have driven 3 different 1968 Chryslers. 2 of them have the usual touchy brakes. The third one the brakes work more like a modern car--not touchy, but still stop the car well. I haven't been able to figure out what the difference is.

Putting a 5.9 Magnum in a big old c-body has kind of been my dream swap. I'm anxious to hear about the results!

Back when I was 16 I inherited my dad's '68 New Yorker that some fly-by-night garage had swapped a 400 into. It had the 4-bbl thermoquad. No mechanic around here was able to get it running right until one of them put a 2-bbl on it. I thought it still had good pep off the line and ran a lot...

Hood scoops look stupid on that car. Just my opinion.

Hmmm, I could have sworn I got that advice FROM THIS FORUM! I can remember someone saying don't crank on them when the car is sitting on the ground because they could break and the car would fall on you. Can anyone else remember hearing that warning? If not maybe I just dreamed it. It's...

I'm pretty happy with KYB.

You will hear this a million times but be sure to heed it: DON'T CRANK ON THE TORSION BARS WHILE THE WEIGHT IS ON THEM! They can break and kill you. But yeah, adjusting front ride height is pretty simple. My best advice would be to adjust it to factory spec, for best driving comfort and tire...