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Does that bracket span from side to side, or are they two seperate pieces?

Yes, correct.

For my purposes, that'd work. I just need to have an idea of how the rear frame brackets that bolt to the rocker should look.

I am testing a theory. Does anyone have a photo of the undercarriage/floor without the subframe installed? For science.

Not much progress. Into the busy season, but here's the latest progress. The corner of the inner rocker had a bit of Rot, so further back, the onion is peeled. Fortunately, the rest of the rocker that came with the pedestal is the gift that keeps on giving. It's in really nice...

Things have been at a standstill lately. The plan has been to install the pedestal I made to verify the frame bolts in all the right places before I make the shim plate. However, I decided to hit the easy button. Sammy @ National Moparts hooked me up with this pedestal. The floor was rotted...

Remade the pedestal. Quite the task making something out of nothing. Hopefully all the measurements and guesswork pays off. Still a little finishing work to do, as well as weld on the captured nuts and fill in the drilled out spot welds.

I'll take a sun-baked car over a rusty one any day of the week. This thing is giving me nightmares as well.

Patched this panel. Going to soak it in some DIY "evapo rust" to get rid of all the rust. Started as this: During: After: Compared to this mess, I feel that was the easy part.

Today's after-work progress: Stripped this mess off the car. The floor patch was laid over top of the old crap. It's a bit soft above the patch, so I'm going to bridge the gap with some new metal. Also got to replace half of this crap. Should be fun. At least the other side is good...

So, the floor has definitely been patched in places. Most of it is still original, though. Not the greatest patches, but certainly not the worst I've ever seen. At least they're welded to solid steel. The original metal above the initial patch is soft, so I'm going to patch that while I'm at...

I haven't confirmed, but visually, they appear to locate it in a different spot. I made a jig to locate the '66 mounts correctly once I remove them from the old stub. Up until a few days ago, I was hoping that was going to be the hardest part of this project. Oh, how I miss the good ol' days.

Yes, the Canadian cars used Plymouth stubs. The only stumbling block in my way is the stub I sourced is for a '65. Other than the engine mounts, there aren't any major differences.

I'm strongly considering replacing everything in that area. Like an onion, the more layers I peel back, the worse it gets. I've sourced a mint floor and cowl, so I think it'll be better in the long run to have proper, factory steel in place. I won't make a final call until I pull the interior...

Not alot. The seller's package only went as far back as 1972. However, it seems to have been a local car it's entire life, as far back as '72, at least. It had a 400 and 727 out of a '73 or '74 C body installed at some point in it's life. The guy I bought it from didn't know anything about cars...

...as this repair was held together with scraps of sheet metal, self tappers, tar, AND hopes & prayers. It's rather disturbing to think this was all that was holding this car together. The rest of the car appears to be pretty sound. * I hope that statement doesn't come back to bite me in the ****

This frame is K-R-U-ST-Y! I'm in love with these expert level repairs held together with booger welds and hope.

Passenger Side: Everything seems to be far nicer on this side. Only rust prevention needed.

More pics of the underbody: Driver's side Trans tunnel, driver's side I would have naturally preferred less corrosion, but all in all, it looks pretty minimal.

Similar to what mine looks like. I had to cut one of those strut bolts out unfortunately, as the captured nut inside separated from the inside. The other one came out fine. Can of worms opened.