Search results for query: Rag joint

I understand there was a steel cover for this rag joint. Any ideas where to locate one ? It's a 65 Fury

"From my observation, the place the gearbox will need adjustment is on the input side, where the rag joint is. If you turn the steering wheel, you'll probably notice the input shaft moving in or out before the car's wheels make any effort to turn from straight." Correct.

So did you have to take shaft right out to switch rag joint? Is it riveted? Thanks

I don't think they got the biscuit until 65.

...free of the column connection. I have a new Bergman Jeep box and his kit to go in. During the removal of headers and starter we found the rag joint inside the heat shield was torn and shot to bits!! I ordered a new one from Rockauto.com and it's the new updated moulded rubber looking...

...flat again. Tightening by hand would've taken too long so I just threaded the joints in by hand as far as I could go, then zipped it all the way down with the impact before finishing with the torque wrench. Now it's the lower control arms, steering box and rag joint, and rear suspension...

Looking for the bracket that holds the rag joint inside the steering coupler. It is number 8 shaped or infinity shaped one on either side of the rag joint.

...to it, so I removed it. My horn no longer wanted to work until I stumbled across a service bulletin describing the function of the staple. Also for older vehicles with the rag steering joints you need a ground across the rag joint. I think by 67 they had the metal coupler. They did in 68...

That is someone's bad idea. This is what it is supposed to be. Also missing the cover. 1965-73 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler NOS MoPar Steering Rag Joint Coupler | eBay

This does not have a rubber biscuit, the steering shaft is solid and connects to the steering box like a fork and blade and has a cotter pin. It has a u-shaped rubber insulator with a copper strip that contacts the top of the steering box which provides the ground for the horn.

Also.. I’m going to change from rag joint steering to u-joints..see pic..

No wiring changes needed to swap out to a regular column, it’s plug and play with the factory harness. Replace the rag joint and you are good to go. Finding a decent un-cracked wheel is the tricky part, but I agree, so much better than a non-functioning horn and column.

I have this complete setup. 75 shipped in the us for the rag joint hardware. Should clean up and paint well.

Thanks Cudamark. I rebuilt the coupler and changed the rag joint. It's much tighter now. (Now steering won't return to center) Next is to replace brake shoes and drums. Waiting on Craig to get back.

...sure why. After cleaning the copper ring, replacing the hockey puck and insuring the ground "spring" was connecting to both sides of the rag joint, adding a little lube to the spring mechanism that contacts the horn ring, and double checking it wasn't the relay or wiring, it still wasn't...

...transmission 1970 Fury if anyone has one and is going to Carlisle. This column will have the ignition switch in it for 1970 along with no rag joint since the Fury stub was still solidly mounted to the body. A column from a 1970 Dodge/Chrysler convertible or cop car is probably also the same...

I remember a few months ago some discussion about obtaining these rag joints, maybe they were hard to get, maybe some ideas to modify them to work better. At the time my '67 Monaco was in storage and I didn't recollect if it had one of those or not. Today I got the Monaco out and low and...

How's the steering column rag joint and coupler? Lower control arm bushings are almost,always shot on the the cars that come to me, even so called restored cars.

Location?

1966 Chrysler 300: Can't get the 4 screws loose to remove the rag joint. Do two consist of nuts that will come off or are they welded on? They require an allen wrench, which makes it very difficult to work with. Are the brackets threaded? Can I cut the joint in half, cut the bolts off...