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KB 167's sit .010 above deck height. Just be careful using the closed chamber heads as far as piston to valve clearance. I'm not sure what happened, whether they milled both a different amount or just milled one side.

A blue California emissions tag....

Newstalgia Parts offers a vinyl top for 1969 to 1973 Imperial two-door hardtops (available in the correct Levant grain) for $309.95 on their website.

As an aside, while in commute traffic in San Jose a month ago, a Prius passed me on the left in the #1 lane with a roof mounted light bar, facing rear. It was blasting the Dodge truck (with contractor bed, and mirrors out) that was about 6 inches from its rear bumper, and obviously pissed off...

U Code 440s are very rare in civilian C bodies, especially luxury New Yorkers. This is the third 71 NY U code I am aware of. The other 2 are the well known coupe owned by a member here and a Tahitian Walnut 4 door sedan that I saw on Ebay in the early 2000s. The whole car should be saved...

Big John knows what he’s talking about, and always has realistic solutions. He rarely recommends a supercharger.

Correct

Thanks for taking the time to put some ideas forward.....issue is like anywhere is getting a machine shop to do it correctly...... But let's see what other input there is from others.

.34 showing on the metric dial indicator is .013".

Any help You totally correct been in South Africa makes it difficult to get honest and correct assistance and then to top it all if one orders the wrong stuff then it's expensive as one can't return as the cost huge.

IMHO, here's what I would do. First is find another machine shop and figure out what you want for deck height. Next, I would have the deck cut to even it up. A good shop can get it even without needing the pistons/crank/rods, but will need them to get your desired deck height. The pistons...

The next thing you'll probably get here is someone telling you that you need domed forged pistons, aftermarket heads, a blower and nitrous, roller cam. They'll ignore the fact that you're in S. Africa.

You're comparing a survivor to a project car. That car didn't sit outside in CO for 53 years. It was taken care of. If you care for and garage an Arizona car it will look the same.

My take, briefly: 1. Scuffs on cam bearings are fine. EVERY cam bearing gets little scuffs during assembly. 2. Right Side. When you say "flush", do you mean zero? Like 0.00 negative deck height? Seems you would have a piston to closed-chamber problem with that, unless you're counting on...

Any help?

Something don't add up to me. In reverse I should have continuity. Switch is out more in reverse but if I push it in more I get continuity. In park and other gears I have no continuity which should be right. Bench tested, switch seems to work backwards. How could I get so many bad switches?

Price drop again $370.00. Free shipping to 48 states.

Nearly 53 years later, this one looks pretty good... Colorado car, now in Oz.

Pulled switch and the new Chinese junk is broke. Plastic is stuck in and shorted. Installed new trw and checked continuity and switch works correct if I put my finger in trans and push switch in more. Pawl won't push switch enough.

I've never actually done it, but the only thing preventing it from manually opening is the sealed fluid in the system. The top pin should be accessible once down, or somewhere in the arc.