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Sportfury70 already posted the answer.

They are different. ‘65-‘66 any Chrysler is what you need. I have one but it is buried somewhere. These folks sell reconditioned clocks: 1965 1966 Chrysler Clock Newport, 300, New Yorker, 300L

I don’t know if they’re still available but I bought replacements from the dealer last time I needed them. They’re the same as full-size vans, which were manufactured into the early 2000s.

Your problem is the pickup in the distributor- replace it.

I love mine!

You’re better off just selling that Belvedere as is. To me!

Yes.

Unless they have factory air conditioning. Then, they only use one.

It’s interesting that came off a ‘68. I assume it was a Canadian car. I had a US ‘68 New Yorker with factory cruise control and it was the newer style, on the turn signal stalk.

Rear defrost is just forced air- not heated. There is a thin duct in the center and a fan that takes in air from the interior and sends it to the duct, via a hose.

I have a black front and rear set in mint condition. I posted them for sale last fall and didn’t get a nibble. I was asking $600. What are you offering?

When it finally fires, is it as you’re turning the key back to “run”?

Not from what I’ve read but it’s been a few years and I’m going from memory. Do you have any lit that says anything about it?

The difference is that the hole in the center of the gear (and the rod that goes through it) was changed from a square cross section to a rectangle.

There was no TNT option for Imperial. There was the “dual dual” option, which gave you dual-snorkel air cleaner and dual exhaust. The engine was still rated at 350 horsepower.

I’m definitely going to check it soon!

Thanks for your input. It looks like it was the bulkhead connector alright. Today was day four of it firing up with no problem, after cleaning pin 12.

Thanks for your input. I think maybe I’ve fixed it (shouldn’t have said that, lol) @Big_John suggested bulkhead connections and after studying the wiring diagram, I targeted pin 12 as the likely suspect. Sure enough, it had green corrosion on it (the only one). I cleaned it and so far, so good!

I appreciate your input. I’m definitely monitoring the positive side of the coil, with a test lamp and it always has +12v in “crank” mode.

...it fired up in “crank” and the seventh time, it again didn’t fire until I was turning the key back to “run”. Had +12v to the coil, every time. *edit* after studying the FSM, I think the likely culprit is high resistance in the bulkhead connector, alright. Specifically, pin 12, which...