Search results for query: *

When I get back from Kissimmee, I'm going to try some other formats. Or....I might need to change from an Excel sheet to a simple Word table....dunno. Frustrating, despite the help that @Big_John volunteered last summer. For the update above, I jacked up the font size and made the image as...

Unfortunately, when the website was updated a few months ago, I'm now unable to insert a nice clear "direct copy and paste" from the spreadsheet as I last did on September 19, Post #236. [See also Post # 227 when I first discovered that I could do that nice and easy copy/paste.] So, this is...

Feet were also on a cushion….so I was thinking the same thing. And that’s probably why we won’t get a pic of the Fender Tag.

Yes, I just updated 228754 to show the Mecum sale last year. Remember the 10% fee that Mecum imposes, so the hammer would have been about $58410. I intend to post an updated Registry before I head to Mecum Kissimmee on Thursday.

This car is not in the Registry (it is now), nor is it in the various 300 Club lists that I have. David Hill has requested additional info (such as the Fender Tag) from the Seller [as he said above :wideyed: ]

I can't find it on FB, but I don't have my own account and I'm definitely not an FB power user. Just borrowing GF's account to have a look. Can you point us to it, or give us the VIN, etc?

Gudentite. Like a German bride.

I believe that I made it clear that sealant is not necessary on these NPT fittings. Tighten them. That is the concept of pipe thread. Teflon tape in this application is worse. But if you want to use some goop or thread sealant….have at it.

No sealant. Pipe thread seals against the male OD and female ID threads by being tightened together. It’s a taper fit. Others will tell you to use Teflon tape. But Teflon is slippery stuff and can allow a fitting in a high vibration environment to unscrew itself. Tighten the fittings like...

Remove hoses from nipples and "short circuit" them. I've made simple u-tubes of soldered copper pipe and two elbows for a tidy solution. Or just loop the hose. Don't kink it. Suck out all the coolant from one of the nipples with a wet/dry vac, otherwise it will leak and dribble forever...

Well regardless, that coolant looks like it’s dribbling from the heater box unless you can see otherwise. Bypass the box by short circuiting the heater hose and see if it stops.

Appears to me that your heater core is leaking inside the heater box assembly under the dash. Any coolant on the passenger floor?

You’ve definitely come to the right place. The members here will gladly provide you with lots of info and good advice.

:rofl:

Big John knows what he’s talking about, and always has realistic solutions. He rarely recommends a supercharger.

The next thing you'll probably get here is someone telling you that you need domed forged pistons, aftermarket heads, a blower and nitrous, roller cam. They'll ignore the fact that you're in S. Africa.

My take, briefly: 1. Scuffs on cam bearings are fine. EVERY cam bearing gets little scuffs during assembly. 2. Right Side. When you say "flush", do you mean zero? Like 0.00 negative deck height? Seems you would have a piston to closed-chamber problem with that, unless you're counting on...

This is coming along nicely!

"I consider that "background information" from my experiences." The OP doesn't care about your background info and experiences. He wants useful suggestions, not Whack-a-Mole. "Loose rocker arms? Shaft-mounted rocker arms are that way because they have to be, unlike stud-mounted rocker arms."...

I had hoped you would get the message from my earlier post. But here you go again: A history of cast iron manifolds, cylinder heads and gaskets, full meal deals, a lesson on flattening the manifolds with a "rotating rock" machine, something about a 1955 265 Chevy engine, and something about a...