Search results for query: motor mount

I would rebuild the Poly. It is truly unique and it makes really good power if you set it up correctly (upgraded cam and either one or two four barrel carburetors. Here is an article describing what is possible at the extreme. However, I would just do the cam, a four barrel carb and a set of...

What you bought is probably for a later year, ie like 1970+ via looking at the dual oval engine mounting bolt holes. .

I am looking for the motor mount cable Chrysler installed on big blocks to avoid mount separation. I've seen the bolt on mods, and would like this original cable setup. I can be reached via Pm.

In machining the block surfaces, you don't go in and just knock off a certain amount of metal, you FIRST see how "square" the block is. All based on the crankshaft area. THEN you check for how accurate the cylinder deck surfaces are, especially front to back. Presuming the factory block...

1967-1972 had the same rubber motor mounts with the through bolt. That black one may be a 1965, they had 2 studs on the rubber mounts. See the mount pad is in front of the steering box, not next to it like the rusted one. Do you recall the oddball drivers side bracket in 1965 that bolts to...

No I was hoping to do it with the car in the air. Guess not. Still have to clean up the transmission mount/dropout, haven't put the bars in yet. I wonder if I can effectively tighten them without the weight of the motor in the car. Probably not. The lower ball joint stud is spinning too. I'll...

That belt tensioning pulley was one of the most ingenious power steering mounts ever devised! With less basic tension (which many didn't understand!!), the power steering belts lasted "forever" and did not squeal under load. As Ford systems hissed and GM belts squalled under similar...

...if when you are going down the road, something in the driveline is moving a little and causing the shift cable to bind up? BTW, don't know if you've encountered it, but the drivers side motor mount & the trans mount are oddballs, and all of the parts stores will try to sell you the wrong thing.

I saw an old post of a member here selling just the rubber replacement. (The thread is closed) Does anyone know where to purchase it? I’ve noticed the couple venders selling the complete unit, with bracket, or a complete set for both sides.

I got a picture off the internet. The bracket attaches to the motor and the rubber mount goes in it. It faces with the stud facing down and gets a large washer with a bolt to tighten it.

The motor mount in back keeps you from accessing with a long extension and socket. From the front a guy might be able to with a custom bent 15/16" wrench bend like an S on the flat sides

All the "new" ones don't really have a transmission which was needed when there was only 1 big motor. Now they just use 1 small motor for each function. The GM track pictured is a 6 way and that's what you want Cuz late 80s they started with 7 way which gives you seat back adjustment. I never...

The left motor mount seems to need replacing. The rubber is very cracked and the engine jumps up on the left side when I perform the test Xenon recommend. I'll replace that first and see if the problem goes away. I'll take a look at the strut rods and bushings when I'm replacing the mount.

I’m pretty sure that slab c bodies and A bodies have completely different motor mount biscuits, so an A body kit wouldn’t work. The difference between small and big block is the bracket part that bolts to the engine is different between the two. If you want bolt in ease, you likely will need a...

Thanks for the reminder! Ah, and I had even commented on that thread too. I'm losing it. :p A side note RE: the Anchor mounts I talked about in that thread - they were still holding good when I sold the car in the summer of '22, with approx. 50k miles on them. And haven't heard of a breakage...

Thought I would share my latest trial mod in case anyone else has thought about something similar. Getting ready to drop my stroker motor in that has a Holley TB fuel injection. I know hood clearance may be an issue so I wanted to move my air intake away from the hood and limit clearance...

I bought my 57 plymouth with the engine out and no engine mounts so I don't know how to shop for new ones. How do they bolt to the engine and to the frame? Pictures and part #'s would be great as I can't find anything that applies to the V-8 version, only the 6 cylinder. I'm also missing the oil...

Mounts look OK, but another look at them is in order.

Open hood.... FIRMLY stand on brake pedal... Put gear selector in D or 2... Push accelerator pedal little more than half way all at once... Look to see if motor "jumped" up... If motor jumps up, replace left motor mount.... .

So if someone wanted to swap a '65 Fury V8 stub frame into a '66 - '68, they could do it, but they'd need the '65 motor mounts correct? And it wouldn't matter what block (small or big block) because the engine mounting geometry is the same - correct? By the way, Rockauto doesn't list a 413...