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The factory didn't use primer or clearcoat. I think rustoleum has a high heat primer, but I've never seen a high heat clear.

I'm going to throw a theory out here. You mentioned you have your crossovers blocked, could this have contributed to extra heat staying in the heads, closer to the exhaust ports rather than being distributed a little more evenly throughout the entire head? Here's my '70 440, car originally was...

No, there were no gaskets from the factory. I believe this is the nature of the HP manifolds, and why someone stepped up and made a product to help. I wonder if these new ceramic coatings would help keep temperature a bit lower, possibly enough to prevent this?

I believe it's fel-pro that makes exhaust gaskets that have a large rectangular tab that sticks up in that area to prevent this from happening.

Holley Sniper EFI 12-314 Holley EFI Fuel Tank Modules - 255 LPH - 1968-1970 Mopar B-Body

There it is! That's a nice setup. It does look like a different mount angle than a C body tank.

I've never seen or heard of anyone making an in tank pump that mounts through the existing sender unit hole. That's a nice idea though! By design most in tank pumps are cylinders from top to bottom. This typically requires welding a lowered corner to the tank. I've also seen pictures of guys who...

This is the best way to look at it. Another term that comes to mind is "preventative maintenance". You have an 800 dollar carburetor, what's a good timing set go for, 150$? Cheap insurance.

I'm not sure you can access it from the fuel pump port, possibly from the distributor. I've always checked for play by twisting the distributor. Perhaps someone has a better method?

It's not written in stone, more like nylon. Glad to hear your new distributor is working well. It may work a bit better with a new chain and gears. Gears wear with use and there's a good chance you're missing a few nylon teeth. Both of these will allow for slack. Personal story - 1971 Newport...

You stated in another thread that you had it running on starter fluid for a short time. If that is true, it's not the timing chain.

Wow! That must really be seized together. If you have a strap wrench I'd try turning it with that. A crowbar with some wood shims for protection might pop it straight up. And penetrating fluid.

Was the weather cooler last year when you installed it? Now that it's hot it's acting up?

You mentioned it's a project car, is the gas old? Sock on the sender clogged?

I've had good luck with cork, once it's been throughly coated two or three times with high tack spray gasket. Some brushed on contact cement around the outside edges of the head and cover and around the bolt holes for extra insurance. Lightly hand snug bolts for an hour or two. Tighten a bit...

Excellent write up! I've always kept mine open. Perhaps darth_linuxs' are blocked? And on the literal side again, I believe your statement should read, "Gas pigs will have:"-"crossover blocked"?

Will this one thing make a difference?

Well, your question was regarding miles per gallon. Threads get easily sidetracked 'round here. It doesn't help that I take things very literally. And please, don't say "Canadian gallons"!

Yes, however Canada has been metric since 1977, so Canadian gallons haven't technically existed for almost a half of a century. I've never in my life heard or have seen the two words written together. I had to say something!

You won't notice any difference going from 2:76 to 2:94. Those are both "Highway" gears. 3:23 is the perfect "all rounder". 3:55, 3:73's are where you start running into driveability issues with the three speed transmission. If you are doing mostly city driving I would recommend the 3:23...