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If you haven't measured up to 3000 with your dial back I definitely would to see where you're at

Probably becomes a personal preference thing, try it with the most timing the 87 will take for a tank and then try 91 or 93 and give it all the timing it likes then and see what the seat of the pants difference is and if it's worth the extra fuel costs. That's what I would do.

What gas do you run

Without adv numbers didn't look too bad. What's the specs on the rest of the engine? Bone stock? Mileage?

Could also be your shifter linkage out of adjustment, tho you shouldn't get any clicking then. Worth wiggling it in park to see

Both relays click? But the starter turns if you jump across the relay? That will rule out the wiring and connection at the starter being a problem

I have a couple sets of Bosch platinums for big block that I'll ship to anyone wanting to try them for $25 shipped.

Fwiw the only time I've used champion 1 broke apart and took out a piston. Used autolites for years but various heat range ngk for the last 20-25yrs from OEM to race car to turbo engine. No issues. Just the v gap, nothing fancy.

Back to actually taking about this car, if it were mine I would have been measuring voltage all over the car to see what was happening

You keep confusing amperage for voltage. Just because you have that problem doesn't mean there natural world behaves that way. An alternator only does what the regulator tells it to unless it's stuck open. Even then, a 40a alternator is more than capable of more than 14.7v if it's internally...

People continue to give poor advice about all this. A 40a alternator is more than powerful enough to burn the wiring out with a shorted connection or device on the circuit. Separately, There is no technically sound reason to suggest here that a too large alternator is causing the charging at...

Aside from some weird theoretical massive capacity alternator where even milliseconds of charging was too much there is no practical point where an alternator can't be properly governed to the correct voltage. In a properly functioning system you could swap from a 40a to a 100a alternator and...

What is the voltage at other points in the system? The sense wire for the regulator is not at the battery. If the regulators test ok then wherever they are sensing voltage it's going to be 14.2. Usually one sees a drop in voltage in other places than the sense wire of course, to see a voltage...

You would need to advise him to take considerable additional steps to be consistent with your advise. I.e. chase your advice all the way around the car and not just that one wire.

Depends on your expected system draw. The alternator won't produce more than the system draws

Stock, these systems didn't keep up well at idle if you've got the lights on, ac, wipers, etc. I've had many that showed discharge at idle with lights and blower motor on for example. Your voltage numbers look fine to me and the drop at idle isn't a concern.

Well I put the blue streak rotor in, the good tan USA cap I found, new xr5 ngks, and the blue streak coil. Cracked it off and seemed snappier off cold start. Need to get it out for a drive and heat sink to tell if really any different

No mopar designation on it, and made it USA?

All sorts of questions this week! This is on my charger, made in USA but no pentastar or other marks on it. The sticker on it is faded can't tell what it said.

Never heard those referred to with that acronym, but have only had a couple ever