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If you want to try it here is a video on just cleaning a mechanical clock it is basically the same process for any clock. The additional component you have to clean is the electrical contact point. I have learned you do not use sand paper, but a points file I clean mine first with a Q-tip and...

No I ended up sending it away. It only lasted a year. Before that I just cleaned mine and it ran the whole summer. I am going to do a quartz conversion and be done with it. I really feel like the issue is it winds itself every 3 or 4 minutes. It leaves a carbon deposit on the contact point. If...

RIP Gary. I never had the privilege to meet him, but talked to him on the phone, and was able to receive some great items for my 300, from him. Very passionate guy for the hobby.

Nicely done great work!

That is what I tell everyone, see how many you can save. I think I lost about 10 when I removed mine, but my car had been garaged it's entire life, so my clips were in really good shape. I do make the lower clips too. I was very careful and don't think I lost a single clip from the lower...

I make the clips. There are 2 main styles at the top. The black ones are located in accessible areas in the trunk, they slide off the trim after the trim is removed. There are also black ones on the front fender but only accessible if you remove the inner wheel wells. The main rest are white...

I did drill out a few, that post helped refresh my memory. I got the parts I need from Murray Park. I did have the front fenders off when I pulled the engine and transmission, but I had already addressed the trim issue beforehand.

If I remember correctly on mine, this was 10 years, I was restoring and painting. I had the wheel wells and the door panels off, so I could get behind them with a pair of pliers, to keep them from spinning.

If you have the time and patience tear it down and get all that old grease out of there. I discovered one of the retaining posts had broken. It is a job in fact I have a power base from @detmatt which I still haven't restored for the passenger seat. Here is a link from my work so you can see...

Another vote for Detroit Eaton. First thing I replaced on Goldie 12 years ago. Fit perfectly and still the easiest work I had performed on my car.

This would work for me too.

Mine would be a 1967 Imperial Crown Coupe, exterior color KK-1 Mist Turquoise Poly, interior silver leather, loaded mobile director. I would be happy with that. :lol:

I personally would keep it in the orginal gold metallic. I think your orginal paint is probably dull and lost it's luster. I couldn't be happier with the fresh, now 10 years old, saddle bronze paint on Goldie.

Boy that was a quick turn around. It would be quicker if I drove my heads up to your guy.:lol:

$180 plus tax, so just under $200. It was the same quote I got 10 years ago so I was happy it didn't go up any higher

The heat spring still pivots freely after the coating. I did ask the same question. I did have everything ceramic coated. When I pulled them 10 years ago I used gaskets when I reinstalled them, and plan to do the same this time too.

Local to me in Columbus, OH, called Performance Powder Coating. I just discovered them but have been here for 26 years and have a very good reputation.

I said 10 years ago when I remove the cast exhaust manifolds again, I would ceramic coat them. I am very happy with the look and hope the external heat reduction will keep the paint from cooking off the bottom of my valve covers.

I have always been a purists in just about anything I work on and most of the time it cost more to restore than to replace. I honestly didn't even consider an aluminum heads, just like when I had may radiator re-cored.

About 77,000 orginal