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ESPO sold us a very nice rear spring upgrade about 4 yrs ago, with an extra 2" of lift for the rear. I used that on our '66, then transferred them to the '68 when Mathilda got murdered nearly 3 yrs ago. Gertrude rides great with the ESPO stuff too, and THAT car had had one of its original...

KYB Gas-A-Just shocks make a GREAT bang for the buck! I use bailing wire to tie the front ones down short until I get them installed, then snip it and ride smooooth! I noticed a VERY OLD pair on my '83 D150 too when I first got it.

Hmmm, I looked and see that they offer the traditional pinky finger steering I treasure on our old rides. I reckon for half a G, they ought to sell a good product. I never minded correcting SLIGHT wandering from any 1960-79 landboat, and am so used to it that driving modern cars bugs me. Of...

Gotcha. No play in that shaft! Mine remains properly rigid. Replace yours or fix it for sure. Thanks big BIG for the link to the new Lares rag joint coupler too! Those were UNOBTAINIUM until recently. Since I LOVE those early Slabbies best, I'll get one when I get another 65-66 Slabby, 4 sure!

Here: A Poor Man's Master Cylinder Upgrade All the hardware you will need to replace your suicide single pot master cylinder with a dual pot one is listed. You can use the old distribution block for your front brakes, merely purchasing a few fittings and a little tubing to attach the rear...

OK, this is a RAG JOINT COUPLER. You need one of these to replace that with one from a Range Rover! DON'T SCREW UP THAT METAL!! I'm gonna find you the link to order one. If for some odd reason its not available, I've got two, one still unused. HERE! Buy THIS: You probably will want to...

That's exactly right. Its the same MC, and one can get a good knockoff version with or without a booster, if one wishes. My knockoff still works very well.

Good 4 U! Manual brakes work very well on these. My '66 Newport came with the same exact setup you're blessed with. It's VERY EASY to use the distribution block for the front brakes, while installing a dual pot 1967-68 Bendix MC, then feeding the rear brake line from the MC. Go read my "Poor...

UPDATE!! I had to replace a rotor on my '83 Miser last month, and discovered that the rotor-caliper combo used on that truck saw duty also on late '70s Formal C-bodies. I'm not surprised, and am gratified. I'll stick with all drums on my Slabbies, which are my All Time Fave cars, period.

I was very happy with a BBB reman steering gear I bought for our 66 Newport 6 yrs ago. It never lost a drop of fluid and worked perfectly up to the day the car was wrecked. Like you, I simply HAD TO STOP AA LEAK THAT BECAME A CAR-STOPPING ISSUE. I plan to re-install that same box in our '68...

If those are fr Moog, decent. Mevotech doesn't slice theirs, making it a trifle more difficult to install them. IDK who else slices theirs, or doesn't. The Mevotechs I put in my '68 are U.S.A. made, which was a pleasant surprise, though I've seen their rubber come from all over south Asia...

Yah, I might have done the same in your situation.

Might as well at that point I reckon. Mind you, had the rear drums still been swaged on, I too would have popped the $125 or so for the bit. I don't appreciate swaging drums.....

One Item, universally found in all the de-swaging threads I've seen: A drill press with the drum WELL stabilized is necessary to the job. Both the tungsten carbide cutting bits on the tool, and the drum itself require perfect lateral stability to prevent ruining the drum and breaking the...

Swaging brake drums to the studs was originally done at the behest of the U.$. Armed Forces by the Big Three during WW2. Chrysler Corp, catering heavily to the Pentagon long after 1945, maintained that tradition, along with left hand threading the left hand side wheel studs. As a Private...

Use the tool David Hill showed. I have one, and it works well. You can find idler arm specific tools on eBay if you look in the "vintage" tools. Modern crap seldom is cast of decent stuff.

Good! Yes, you MUST replace that seal when replacing the rest of the stuff.

I love mine too. Without a press you can't do much with these pumps, be sure. I have a nice old 20 ton one made in South Carolina about 80 yrs ago. You either will have to get a press, or hire a shop. A worn shaft bodes ill for long term, but maybe, if you do a total rebuild, leaking can be...

There are plenty electric power steering pumps on the market actually. I've meditated on using one myself, just as I like electric water pumps, fans, and oil pumps. By all means, using electric accessories certainly frees up power to deliver to the drivetrain, at the price of depending more on...

TRW pumps get replaced because some folks don't care for the way they run actually. Also, parts for Saginaw pumps still can be had, and Saginaw pumps still are made for after market buyers. I LOVE TRW pumps myself, and if you don't want to tinker with what you have, I'll buy it from you. See...