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See #21 above.

That's how we used to do it back in the day. We'd just remove the cap from the spring chamber and add a washer or two to get he pressure where we wanted it on the gauge.

Keep the height as us. These big C-bodys were notorious for getting rear sag because the springs were weak. I used air shocks just to keep it higher because I liked the California rake.

See #27 and #32 above about using a wheel cylinder hone.

I don't think you'll get a muffler shop to put a pipe in it's place since that would be a violation of Federal emissions law with a possible $10,000 fine. Just cut the converter cleanly with enough meat fore and aft, ram out the guts and put it back with correct size sleeve connectors and...

I had that problem years ago after having my block tanked and new cam bearings installed. I broke a new camshaft trying to get it in and it got stuck. Before trying another one, I used a brake cylinder hone to get the clearances needed to install another cam.

I tried that on my '03 Chrysler Town & Country 3.8 V6 back in 2012. I put a full gallon in my tank and took a 250 mile trip. I still had the code and had to replace the Cat anyway. Inside wasn't melted so I guess it was contaminated to the point of no return.

I built a '74 Plymouth Scamp back in the '80s and used aluminium elephant ears mounted behind the water pump like some super stockers did. I installed a 440 4 speed with Hooker fender well headers in place of the slant 6 and A/T. I even kept the A/C and added disc brakes from a later Duster and...

From my own experience from back in the day, the '65 mounts are different from a '66, because the '65 big blocks bolt to the front and side of the block, where the '66s were side mounted on the side ears of the block. To my recollection there are differences like the '65 had cable shifters...

The later 440s had external balanced cast iron crankshafts which required balanced torque converters. Otherwise the engine will not run smoothly and will eventually damage the transmission or crankshaft. Up until '71 the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft did the job but those were steel cranks.

'65 Fury C-body cars did not have K-members. They have front subframes. If you can find a donor C-body car that had a big block, you can use the motor mounts on the existing frame, but it will have to be a '65 because a '66 has a different style of mounts and won't interchange. Any '65 C-body...

I see your point but I am hoping I can find one close enough that I can just enjoy it as is. I'm not looking for a project at my age. I was sent links to a couple already but one had some of the chrome removed and holes to filled in. The other had body damage and wasn't a color I want. If I can...

Like I said previously, I'm not looking to do a restoration, just a decent driver. One like my Dad had or like one I had years ago. I'm at the point in life to just drive and enjoy a nice driver.

I can myself. I have some of the special tools needed like the rear hub puller, the emergency brake adjustment tool and a dwell meter so I can replace and adjust points. My dad was a mechanic and we both owned and drove these cars so I learned how to repair and adjust a lot of things.

I'm 74. I don't want a project at my age, just something to drive and remember the good old days. If I can't find what I want I don't have to buy.

I am looking for a 1960 Plymouth Fury HT or possibly a 1960 Belvedere Sedan. The hardtop could be 2 or 4 door but prefer Red or Black and have the Rear Sportsdeck, Torqueflite and front bumper guard. Skirts would be a plus. The Belvedere must be Black with White top like the one my dad owned...