Search results for query: *

This looks like an underhood harness, no? If so try Evans Wiring, they have a lot of pre made harness' for our cars. Mark

For that rust, get a plumbers MAPP torch and heat the fitings. Don't go crazy but the heat burns off the oxidation. Use the flare wrench as posted above, and make sure you watch where the torch is aimed to prevent colateral damage. Try a couple short heating sessions with application of rust...

Oh lordy yes, I still may have a scar from one I tried to remove without a clamp in a junkyard years ago. I also vote for removing the whole thing to renew the grease, etc. With a helper have them operate the switch while you listen closely to the offending door area. You should hear a faint...

Nice! I also took a evening paint class for three semesters. Learned a lot but I really only do repairs and individual panels now since "I'm old". There is a tool to help with paint runs to level them before buffing, a "denubbing" file or block: Run Removal Tools – Motor Guard Some are rougher...

The biggest problems with drum brakes now is the quality of the replacement linings. The reformulation to remove asbestos was pretty sketchy for low volume older applications and they just dont perform as well. I also was unhapply with the small 2" brakes on my heavy 65 Chrysler convertible with...

I worked for Chrysler in the Mopar Parts Div, and was a service and parts dealer rep before that. There was some sort of system but not always applied. The first two letters of the 7 digit code was the zone identifier. The next five were where Chrysler billed everything: parts, programs etc...

The 318 is internally balanced. The 360 is external, and the torque converter weights are different. The Mopar Performance engine manuals have a discussion on this, and i believe Mancini Racing still sells a weight set to make a conversion. Mark

Wagon tailgates were considered as a "door", so they had the same key as the doors... and ignition. Tailgate cylinder usually has to be removed from the inside, a clip holds the assembly in. Once out a good key shop can duplicate the original key, which will then work on the rest of the locks...

Which seats does your car have - the flat bench or the split "buckets" with a center armrest? If the latter there are seat foam kits made. I did them on my 65 300 and they made all the difference in how the seats felt and looked. Mark

Any 1967 or earlier US car can get a copy of the build card. It shows options, and what dealer code it was sold to. Need to show your proof of ownership. Contact: https://www.chryslerclub.org/PDF%20files/Chrysler_Historical_Build_Record_Request.pdf

1957 Imperial & Chrysler Door Adjustment Guide Master Technician Service Bulletin Session110 This and other Master Tech "videos" are really helpful on this. Mark

I hope this is not a repeat, but all 69 T&C had off white headliner panels. My parents bought a new one with a black interior, they were the off white color. Mark

You should talk to the folks at Imperial Services or 440 Source before you dive in. They may have the solution for the driver side motor mount issue. It is as much the mounting surface on the block as it is the mount. Mark

Hello; An odd thing I stumbled across... The 1960 300F that was sold recently indicated it was purchased as a 999 code (blue) at Fischer Motors in Grosse Pointe, Mi. SOLD - 1960 Chrysler 300F special order Polar Blue (999 paint code) Years ago I tried to buy another 1960 300F, also with a 999...

My 66 T&C had a build sheet taped to the passenger front door under the trim panel. Mark

Floor mats were offered as an OEM option only intermittently, and more often in the 1970's in general. You can download the data book from HamtramckHistorical for your year and see if they are listed as an option. They were more consistenlty offered as a Mopar accessory; same source can find an...

Resealing the pump is fairly easy. The toughest part is getting the pulley off to replace the seal behind it; the O'Reilley's etc. of the world will rent the special tool. To get it back on heat the pulley center with a plumbers torch and it will drop right on (or it did for me). Mark

The late Ron Mancini, aka "Zoomo", long time Chrysler transmission engineer and drag racer, told me to use Type F for firmer shifts. It is compatible with out transmissions. The ATf+4 is a full synthetic and better, but at a cost. You pays your money.... Mark

Another reason for using Power Steering fluid is noise, it is formulated to reduce pump whine. Mark

The one on my 66 T&C was damaged by battery acid, the factory location that year was ill advised. Mark