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Damper DR. DamperDoctor

I still have/use the Sturdevant beam and pointer torque wrench I bought in 1963 along with a slew of newer click type wrenches. As was mentioned earlier, calibration is important. I get mine re-calibrated periodically if I use them a lot. Beware of torque wrenches with plastic adjustment...

Mine's been used a lot over the years. I use it to do preliminary chassis setup then I take the vehicle in for a laser alignment to tweak it in right on the money.

Vacuum hose rotted away or fallen off in the heater control system, probably under the dash? Bad power brake booster? Cheap vacuum gauge?

I worked on a lot of those back in the late sixties/early seventies. Quick way to put power brakes into your pick-up truck.

383 and 440 should be a neutral balance damper. 400, on the other hand, are externally balanced so the dampers are NOT the same as the 383/440. Is the rubber cracking? Can you wiggle the outer rin at all? You can get it rebuilt at https://www.damperdoctor.com/ . I just had them rebuild the...

I use Safety Kleen in my ultrasonic cleaner. I got it used from the property disposition center at the Digital Equipment Corp site in Westfield, MA when I worked there in '75. The company upgraded to a bigger system and I was able to buy the old one. It's a 9" X 10" X 26" LPS stainless tank...

The foil bag is a noise suppression device, not a heat insulator. Chrysler calls it a "SILENCER PACKAGE, tappet chamber" and the part number is 1879 747

Is there a tight bend in the rubber hose between the frame and the fuel pump? I so, the hose can collapse at the bend when the fuel pump is working hard to supply the demands of the engine under acceleration. How's the fuel pump pushrod? A worn one will diminish the efficiency of the fuel...

That's what I've been running in my early hemi in the '34 as well as in my one-owner '68 GTX ever since the government mandated the elimination of zinc in automotive lubricants.

Rock Auto

Fuel pump push-rods are an inexpensive remedy but check the camshaft as well while you have it apart. You can easily do that by removing the distributor and looking through the distributor hole at the fuel pump cam lobe. If it's worn (it'll have a groove in it), you're looking at a camshaft...

I used Eastwood's turquoise paint on my '68 440 back in '16.

Aviation gasket cement. Haven't had that leak in 60 years on a slew of transmissions I've changed filters in on multiple occasions.

4 pin boxes are the performance versions with no need for a dual ballast resistor. OEM, non-performance, boxes have the 5 pins and need to be used with a dual ballast resistor.

pull out the center bolt on the idler arm and that'll let you remove it from the cross-member thus allowing the center-link and tie rod to drop low enough to get a couple pf hammers in there.

FWIW, just so you know, the Hurst shifters that came in MoPars are not the same as the Hurst Competition Plus shifters. Even the part number is shy one digit. That's so that Hurst could tell the difference at a glance and refuse to warranty a MoPar factory Hurst. You had to take it back to the...

Back in the day when these cars were brand new, we called them Inland Steel toilet flushers. Mystery Shifters were three speed shifters, not four speed shifters. They were better quality than the toilet flushers. I swapped out the one in my GTX the day I brought it home from the dealer in...

"As for hardened seats. It is the valves that burnt not the head casting. Sure the seat is probably in bad shape, but the valve has less mass to heat up and go bad, why they take more of a beating." The seat erodes allowing the exhaust gasses to pass through the gap. That's what burns valves...

"The hardening is only thousandth’s deep." Untrue. The hardened seat replacements are a totally different metal than the integral cast iron stock seat.