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A friendly FYI.... 4 terminals = 1970 and 1971 only. Use it on a '69 and you will have no front parking lamps. Other than that it will work.

The black wire is power in (probably from the plastic push button switch). Black to brown is low Black to green is high I have a 2587564, NOS MoPar, if you are still looking.

Do you have 2 or 3 speed wipers? A pic of the wiper motor will tell us. And am I to understand that when you flip the switch to "off" the wiper arms park but don't go down enough? Have they ever gone down all the way since owning the car?

1) What was the reason for replacing the switch? 2) A new switch, or a new used switch? 3) Is the # on replacement switch the same as your original?

I'm still looking. No rush. Thanks

Back when I was a Californian I did quite a bit of "testing" by getting 2 gaskets and putting a metal shim between them. There was even a factory block off plate for use on 49 state applications. This was when we had to pass a visual test by the CHP at roadside inspections. You might have to...

If you were to ground the feed wire at the sender, turn the key to 'on', does the dash gauge go to full? I used to use a remote starter push button for this as my shop was a one man show.

PM sent

I suggest testing with an OHM meter before installing. You will need to have continuity between terminals "R" and "I" while rotating the thumbwheel

I rebuild 4-5 of this type per month. You do need to get it apart (the rivets) to get at the corrosion that is between the contact (green corrosion) and the rheostat (spring)

The 3502126 will leave the compressor on at all times. I have an NOS 2587564. PM me if interested

Wiper switch, and tailgate switch in the dash?

Hard to tell from the pics. Are there still threads on the end of the set stem?

$95, including the return ride. I would be happy to test the switch for you, no charge.

1969 Imperial had 2 different style dimmers. This style I rebuild This style I do not You might want to at least feel up behind it to see if it is even plugged in.

There is a circuit breaker inside the variable switch that will open / close due to heat (too much of a draw somewhere). I have rebuilt easily hundreds of this type(A,C and E and Imperial have the same internals). If you have a factory shop manual it will explain how to test the motor...

Would this duplicate the symptoms? Battery charger hooked up, engine OFF Key on ACCY Heater ON Fan on HIGH Sit down, watch a ball game in the garage, wait........

It wouldn't hurt to install a relay. I have seen plenty of the plastic push button switches with the blower terminals melted.

I'm in

If your chrome 'toggle' is missing then chances are it is because the lower part (pictured) has cracked open. Almost any used one will do the same thing while trying to remove it from the switch body. Tight fit and very brittle plastic.