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Th Thank you.

Due to a divorce agreement, I have to sell my beloved "Bess". The odo says 30K but I believe now she's 130K via VIN search. Upgraded to front disc brakes and electronic ignition. All belts/hoses/spark plug wires replaced. Approximately 15k on tires (6 years old) Everything works except: gear...

Upon second glance, I found them (thank goodness). Time for new glasses! Thank you, sir.

Thank you, that's the first thing I looked for. Hopefully I just missed it.

This is from the 1966 Service Manual, which you can download for free at mymopar.com.

Hello Everyone, Time to replace the ignition switch on Bess. Got it unplugged easy enough, but the Autopilot knob not so much. If it's in the repair manual I must have missed it Any help, as always, greatly appreciated.

Yes. Back in business. Loose connections wreaked havoc.

Yep! Thank you everyone for pulling me through this electrical nightmare! 1. Headlight switch connector repaired. 2. Door pin switch grounded. 3. Re-repaired battery feed into fusebox!

Well, I have checked and rechecked those fuses. But yeah, no gauge lights now either. The gauge lights and taillights are new from yesterday.

Yes, and thanks again. Onto no taillights.

They are physically separated, but that issue now solved - loose door pin switch.

Back door driver's side pin switch was just a little loose. That problem solved, thank you! Now on to (now) no taillights! I am thinking the headlight switch itself maybe.

I wonder now if there isn't actual damage to the headlight switch itself. That or door plungers are next, I suppose.

Update: Headlight switch connector wiring, once unwrapped, showed previous "repair". So, new butt connectors all around, heat shrink, tape. Ammeter works again! Door light problem persists!

On it.

Welcome!

Update: 1. Uninstalled dash. 2. Checked next section of wire - and at least visually - looks great. 3. Ammeter wires look great, as does the back of the meter. 4. Got to the headlight switch connector... Taping job looked like one of mine. Unwrapped, and found wires twisted together, then taped...

So that really can't factor in then. As noted earlier, I disconnected the headlight switch and still the interior lights came on.

That actually DOES make sense. When I replaced the switch 2-3 years ago, I rotated it onto it's side for easy access to the release button. Thus, the area grounded was minimal.