Search results for query: *

Seat belts?? I have seen people asking for them. Cant remember which of these sites it was on.

Late model motor, repainted cuz someone like red?? I see paint on the distributor, like there would never be......and that looks like an EGR valve too maybe? Cool car, just toss all the aftermarket!!

If im hearing you guys right, the OP's car is a whole year newer than he thought it was, which is what i was expecting. Bonus!

That sure sounds too early for a build date?? Am i just confused??

Nice!! Looks like an easy project car. I hate rust....this car looks like it has none.

Thats a nice looking car!

I would bet my bottom dollar that if i attempted this myself, i throw the TDC mark out of kilter and waste my efforts. I am curious to know tho..... what/who is the source for replacement rubbers???

Maybe not. Could be the plastic isolator?? on the rooster comb, in the trans. When you pull the neutral safety switch, look carefully in the hole for any clues. This really depends on the year of the trans.

Good start! If problems seem to point towards the fuel pump itself, bear in mind that the camshaft driven pump push rod is prone to wear on these big blocks. Peeps have had issue with hardness on the replacements too. A good used original is the best bet if you should need one.

Not a one size fits all question. Fiber gaskets are often used with aluminum manifolds as John said. However, if machine work required cutting of heads, block, manifold or all, then you may have to have them. Best practice is to drop the manifold on with NO gasket or bathtub, then look...

Lets start with this; what mechanical problems is it having?? Are there pics maybe and a general idea of the cars condition in the welcome section here?? Whatever you can tell us about the car will help. Welcome to the group!

I use that psc-1000 from tsc now as well. I use to buy only Super Agitene because it was the least problem for your hands....not that you should get any of that stuff on your hands if you dont have to. Seems the price of Agitene and Super Agitene got quite hogh and i dont even know where to...

If it looks good, and the timing mark at TDC is spot on, id leave it alone.

The B-bodies were well represented.

What do the pushrods look like on top?? Who supplied them? Sizes match up??

Google Mymopar wiring diagrams.....the site hosts a whole bunch of mopar diagrams for specific car..... download the '72 diagrams....there are two within specific to the Imperial.

Used, or brand new Torker? BB swaps are usually pretty easy, since you dont get into the cooling system. Just test fit and be wary of a manifold that may have been cut on. You may need one or even two sets of paper gaskets and i would leave the bathtub in place for initial fitment. Two...

Any pix or clues given from post #4 may help you (and us). That is a forged crank engine, or at least it has one in it now. Maybe pull the bearing shell you already have in hand off the cap and give us the info you find on the back of the shell?? Also, there may be a forging number stamped...

Did you check end play??? As-in you had none before starting to teardown?? You should be able to fit a feeler gauge in between each bearing shell and the crank. Both top and bottom shells have the same issue?? Also, if you put the crank back in without that #3 bearing, torque the other 4 caps...

Looking for the small oil port on the block, you'll see there is one on each bank of the block, which feeds oil up to the valve gear on each head. Looking for the adjoining holes in each head, you'll see there are two small holes in each head. The oil passages go to two ports on the heads...