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Use the best oil available. Unless you are doing regular oil analysis testing, all this is totally subjective. Not based on actual data. Heck, go to a mopar dealer and buy an "090" oil filter. It meets the minimum (cheapest) spec at the time of manufacture like pretty much any auto part. Cost v...

So, my dad taught me that Mopar engines put way too much oil to the top end. He did have a knack with the BB Mopars as some here might know. He always did a bit of offset to the cam bearing to keep more oil down low in the crank bearings.

The classic" high pressure" is better. Not necessarily. High volume is actually better. But one usually gets high pressure with high volume. The old standard was 10psi per 1000 rpm. Oil has two jobs, keeping metal to metal apart and cooling.

Honestly, buy the best you can get! Small price to pay for peace of mind!

10w30 conventional oil in my 300J. Add ZDDP every change. Sure, Diesel oils have zink BUT, totally different additive package due to the soot in the oil. Stick with a good quality oil for gasoline engines and add the zinc. Or, use a specific oil for older flat tappet engines.

After a 40 ish year career testing engines on dynos and in vehicle and having a slew of older cars, typically, our "toys" don't see enough annual miles to really worry about valve recession. And, if you are planning an EFI system if it uses an oxygen sensor to run "closed loop" fueling, any lead...

I've seen kilo speedos back to 57!

VERY! She wasn't "perfect" when I had her. My first letter car 40 years ago. Great driver, a good starting point. The engine had a 440 375 hp cam, match ported heads so not too crazy but strong.

Yep. Is a US car. Single 4 413. All K's had consoles.

Well, really interesting as I used to own this particular K! The SN is what gave it away. I remember this number to this day. Yes, white K, was a ratty red interior when I got it. Changed to black. Rather well built 413 by my dad/myself. Under the hood everything was 100% factory stock...

My 4spd L is certainly not the best driver! Tall gearing, heavy and why oh why did they choose the 10.5" clutch! 4spd C bodies are about as rare as it gets though.

My 67 Fury I about totalled a 77 GM Nova clone. Got hit in the rear. Broke a taillight, dented the bumper on the Fury. Took out his whole front bumper, rad, core support, battery, grill, hood....

Design concept for the 300 L

Agree on the Type F usage. Worked with Ron for years dyno testing engines and transmissions and yes, Ron knew his stuff! My 300J has had Type F in it for years and no issues.

Best bet, contact Murray Park, Tiffin Ohio. He will have everything you are looking for. Great guy, just very, very busy.

Very reasonable driver for sure. Anyone would be proud of this one.

My two cents worth: Disconnect the driveshaft from the trans. Spin up to the trouble spot to eliminate shaft, drums etc. Spending 40 years of dyno testing, a lifetime of working on cars/trucks, tracking down vibration can be a challenge. Doesn't take much to trip a vibration with all that heavy...

My 2 c worth: My dad was a long time old TQ flite rebuilding guy. He used Type F as it has higher coefficient of friction versus Dexron II, III, IV etc. Gives firmer shifts. Only for full fluid replacement though. I learned to NOT use full synthetic ATF in older manual transmissions ( the hard...

My 300L 4spd came with an Edelbrock carb and it ran pretty poorly at highway speeds. Carb was way too lean. Got an original AFB and she ran so much better. Many of those new AFB/AVS carbs are calibrated for economy.

No they are not. The 84 is for the 300 K only.