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If 0.090", it would have to be ABSOLUTELY PERFECT or you'd never get it installed. Even then, it might be a mother bear! There is NO flexing that. :) Also, need bigger rivets, I suppose.

On my '67 Fury III convertible, there have been a few occasions over the years to remove the glove box. It is always hard on the box coming out and going in. If you need to do anything with the heater box, ducting, or the speaker, out it comes. I finally got tired of the cardboard and...

Boy, HOWDY!

I put on a set in the last 6 months from Steele on my '67 Fury III convertible. Everything fits the way it should. I still need to get seals for the forward edge of the wing window frame/windshield interface, though.

I had my exhaust completely redone (dual exhaust in place of original). Custom work, so it does clear just fine.

Yeppers

They're good, too.

Interesting that the "Aircraft Paint stripper" has a note on the can to the effect that it is not intended for use on Aircraft. That said, I work on aircraft, and have had occasion to strip a few. "Aircraft Stripper" and Jasco both previously used methylene chloride as an active ingredient...

Try Steele rubber products.

How do you like the "B" block? Performance? How's it set up?

Yes; ADDCO makes sway bars for front and rear. You'll have to fabricate sturdy mounting points for the end links -some welding required- but they fit just dandy in my '67 Fury III. I'm glad I put them in, handling was improved a lot.

I have a black '67 Fury III convertible -LA 318, A727- that has been in my family since new. It was gifted to me in 1986. I Drive it a lot. Power steering. I've added disc brakes, power booster, 4BBL Holley manifold and spread-bore carburetor [O-6210] (got rid of 2BBL flat spot off idle that...

Well said!

My 67 Fury III Convertible is Black, with white interior. Looks pretty elegant, but not the best color for the desert!

That is correct. A real CHORE, to be sure. After all that time in the rust belt, is there anything left of the rest of the car? I HATE winter salt.

I personally prefer to unload the spring (torsion bar) pressure altogether. If for some reason the spring gets to release its energy unexpectedly, you could lose an arm. NOT worth the risk, IMHO. Simply mark the bolt adjustment before loosening so's you can put it back exactly where it was.

I recently did a disc brake conversion on my '67 fury III convertible, using a Wilwood conversion. The braking is splendid! I will also convert the rears to disc. Front spindles and wheel bearings remained the same, used the original spindles. The days of unequal braking are over, evidently.

I put 15X8 4-1/2 on 5, 4.5" backspacing, 2.45/60-15 tires on 67 Fury III (no skirts). Fit is really good.