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Sat for about 30 years before I bought it. Seat was in decent shape but i used this as my daily driver most of the year so it got torn up

1967 Chrysler Newport Custom, 383 727 auto 8¾ car with 55,146 original miles. All numbers matching drivetrain. Ohio car with very little rust, factory undercoating, floors and trunk pan are very solid. I've touched just about everything in the car. Motor has absolutely no blowby, rebuilt trans...

Fair enough, could be the carb but it snaps to life when I turn the key. I'm thinking it may be my valve seats or valve seals. It's a pre-smog era motor, so it doesn't have hardened valve seats

I actually checked my blow by, my car has none. It's a 55k mile engine. The valley pan gasket is new, I replaced it a couple of months ago. I did check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, I used soapy water and I didn't see and bubbling

Checked all the plugs, they're tight. Also made sure to check all the plug wires and they're all in good shape

It's a new coil, I'm running an edelbrock coil. I did try another coil and it didn't make any difference.

I disconnected the choke, and this is a freshly rebuilt edlebrock

I have a chambered thrush muffler, been on the car since may. I suspected it may be exhaust related so I pulled the muffler and the sound actually got worse with no muffler. As for fuel leaks, it doesn't have any.

I actually pulled it check if there was coolant in the oil, doesn't seem to be anything in the oil pan besides oil

I appreciate the advice, I'll definitely check that.

It's not running like it has a vacuum leak, in fact it idles at about 650 rpm. I also have a clear fuel filter. Any time it comes up off idle it sounds labored.

I'm completely at a loss here, I have a 67 newport with a 383, I drove it all weekend and it ran great, never had an issue. Monday morning I start it up to drive it and it sounds like I have a massive exhaust leak, and it smells like raw fuel. It cranks over and starts normal and idles fine, I...

I actually have an aftermarket voltage regulator in, and it reads exactly the same as the original one that was in the car. I haven't had the bulkhead connector apart yet so I may try cleaning that and putting dielectric grease on it

I have the gauge wired in at the fuse panel running on a keyed power circuit. Regardless of whether it's at the alternator output or battery it shouldn't ever dip below 12 volts though.

I have a volt gauge wired into the car at the fuse panel, I'm not using a handheld reader or a

I bypassed the ammeter over a year ago. Aside from a pair of LED headlights I don't have anything that would drain my battery. It doesn't matter if the car is on or running it read 11 volts, and if I turn on the running lights and the heater, it goes as low as 9.5 volts. Like I said, I don't...

It's a brand new battery and the terminals are also clean

I have a 67 Chrysler Newport, I recently replaced the alternator with an OEM 55 amp alternator, and voltage regulator but it's only reading 11 volts. I've checked all my grounds, and I don't appear to have any parasitic draws on the battery. It slowly gets weaker and after about a week of being...

Somebody HELP ME. I have a 383 2 barrel, I recently converted to a 4 barrel, I have a freshly rebuilt edelbrock 1406, it's a 600 cfm 4 barrel with electric choke, I have everything hooked up properly, no leaks or open ports, I've sprayed brake clean around the intake/carb base and there was no...

Did you end up running an aftermarket cam or the stock cam? Because my 383 is a low compression 2 barrel motor with a tiny cam