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I am going with A&A transmission's parts, red frictions with kolene steels rebuild kit and his thrust washer kit as the rebuild kit doesn’t look like it comes with thrust washers or plastic spacers.

I have a newbie trans rebuild question…how do tell if you need to replace the two bands in an unknown condition 727? Some backstory, i acquired a transmission that has been sitting for a bit and i am going through it doing a refresh with new seals and clutches. It is supposed to be a good unit...

For the front conversion, it’s just straight bolt on minus the trimming to the turn stops? Is the geometry the same still or are the spindles a lot different?

I bought the axle housing without the axles since he had a set of c body axles to go with it.

Hm, might be a good excuse to upgrade my welder, i just have a Hobart handler 140. I’ve built a trailer with it and haven’t had any issues with the welds so far.

I was thinking that could be an option if i needed to do that, the nuts on my spring packs are a fair bit smaller than the holes on the spring perches on the axle currently in the car, so realistically it’s less than 5/16 of flex on each side.

Would you preheat the housing before welding new perches on to help prevent warping? I’m going to just try them as is first and see how it fits.

I found c body axle shafts, but they are 1/4” shorter than the imperial shafts from the imperial rear end, is that an issue? Do the axle shafts have to be the perfect length to function? I can see to long being an issue. Should add, the c body axles already have the green bearings installed on...

Ah jeez I overlooked that. Why does it have to be an oddball 5x5 instead of 5x4.5!

that’s what i am thinking to. Picking it up this weekend and will report back once it’s in, probably once there isn’t a heatwave going on.

Thats that axle housing flanges difference. The spring perch center line would be going from 45.5 to 46.125 which is 5/8 difference, so actually 5/16 each side that the leaf packs would be pushed out.

Absolutely, the last time i had to touch the rear brakes it was a multiple day fight.

I know this has been asked before, but is there a definitive first hand experience direct bolt in swap for these axles? I have been searching locally for a while now and the best i have come across is a 67-69 imperial rear end that is 46 1/8 center to center on the springs and 55 5/8 flange to...

I have since converted it to EFI and am now waiting for the 440 i bought for it to be machined, which is probably 6 months out still.

I drove it yesterday after retorquing the bolts. It slightly exhibited the behavior still. When i got back home i torqued the bolts to 35 instead of 25ft lbs. drove it this morning and it’s much better, still goes a bit lean but i think a normal amount of lean. Yesterday and today though driving...

I’ve never had luck doing this, but i think I’m always to conservative on my boom juice application.

I took the manifold off yesterday. I did try flammable brake clean between the manifold and valley pan and all around but didn’t see an increase in rpm. I wasn’t looking at the o2 gauge while doing this, and I’m not sure what the polling rate is on it to display the value if it would capture a...

That makes sense but would be a bummer. I’ll inspect it really well when I have it off.

I think the last time i installed the manifold i used paper gaskets on the top side of the valley pan, but not under and I didn’t use any sealer other than in the corners where the heads meet the block. I’ll try your method out. Thanks

That’s what I’m thinking to, it will just be the third time now I’m installing and resealing that manifold. Maybe I’ll get it right this time!