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by wobbling horizontally , do you mean the space between the backing plate and drum increases and decreases as you spin the drum? if your wheel bearings are good, i'm starting to wonder if someone smacked a curb and tweaked the hub.

can you switch drums side to side to see if the problem moves to the other side?

the grooves in the jaws of the vice grips serve the same purpose but with more leverage.

just lightly clamp some vice-grips across the disc. push on turn and release vice grips.

pull the kick panels. i'd almost guarantee you have nests in there and the bottom of the fenders too.

when bleeding, does the pedal push hard or drop easily without the car running? i've had proportioning valves stick to where i could force fluid through with the pedal but it took a lot more effort than it should have.

might want to try them on the back also. there is less room in the wheel well in the back than the front.

are the bumps on the backing plates that the shoes slide on smooth and lubed?

there was a company ( can't remember the name) that produced crash sheets for body shops. they must have needed that info for pulling frames , etc.

did you change the rubber brake hoses ? it almost sounds like pedal pressure pushes the fluid through but partially clogged hoses wont allow fluid to return. if there is a vent on your reservoir cover , make sure that is clear too.

although highly unlikely, finding an old shop that has an arc grinder is the best method. they come up for sale now and then , maybe make a few bucks from friends and family?:)

aluminum slots (your wheels) will be nearly impossible to identify. the appliance centers can fit other kinds and there are many. looking here may help AKH Vintage Wheels - Aftermarket Aluminum Wheels mcgard used to make long shank lug nuts with the thick washers for them. McGard uni-lug wheels...

you won't know if the booster is bad until the car is running. you may want to wait , it could be ok ,then you could put the money elsewhere.

the bail wires are different on most of the pictures you posted. don't know if it makes a difference or not.

if it has a prop valve, sometimes they stick. try alternating pumping the brakes while banging on it with a hammer to free it up.

any pictures of this?

the shoes don't go completely to the outside edge of the drum. everything looks ok to me. clean the drums and get new shoes (whatever is on there will leach out with heat no matter what you try to clean it with.)

looks like quite a dent in the cross member. i wonder if it pulled the left side of the stub frame down enough to where the adjuster had to be moved up?