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3/4" wrench on the carb fitting 1/2" flare nut wrench on line nut.

The long ram brake booster is the same as any other car. The difference is the screw on plate with the hose fitting, it is bent to the center of the car instead of straight.

The standard Chrysler 300 1960-1961 long ram 413 with 375 HP engines had hydraulic lifters and stamped steel rocker arms. A dual point can be installed in any engine at any time. Don't assume the carbs are set up correctly, few of them are, especially aftermarket Edelbrocks. Plugs can be...

All is normal, proceed to line up the marks and replace timing set. When marks are as instructions say the engine is not ready to fire #1, it is firing on #6.

Please, No heat or anti sieze on the damper. Put it on clean and dry. No oil, lube, paint or grit.

if you chase the threads on the intake bolt holes better to remove the valve covers and catch all the "debris" that comes out of those bolt holes. They are open to the insode of the engine buy the pushrods. The valley pan won't rust it is coated. It will rust if the car is out in the weather...

The 1970 service manual says the end play should be between .008 and .018 So 0.0050 Or .005 is too tight.

The gasket usually isn't cause of the leak it's the pan. Flat pan, no sealer. And there are several leak points just above then folks think it's the pan.

What carb is it. 2bbl Holley Thermoquad, or ?

What car/engine are we talking about? First thing is check compression, they will all be low if timing chain jumped. You have a timing problem as noted by the backfire. Tell us what was changed for the distributor a few weeks ago, that's a start. What ignition? what carb?

Looks like a makeshift mount setup on a newer style PS pump. The 1966 PS box and pump should have a 5/8" return hose, and the pump you have uses the small return hose. Look for an adapter inline. The hose on the pump should seal done with a clamp, so the hose could be old and hardened, or...

I doubt a 74 and newer sized thrust bearing would go into an older block. You would have to pound it in caveman style.

Don't use ATF in the PS system. There I said it.

That won't work, this small brackets to intake need to come off. The 68 and older compressor bracket has 2 bolts on left head and one on right. Then to top PS bolt and the bolt by T-stat whee alt strap goes.

What year? The brackets completely changed between 68 and 69. Maybe more changes on mid 70's. It could have been swapped around also, Got any photos?

Go and drive the car, put some miles on it. Get it warm from driving, not idling. Run some fuel out, get some fresh fuel

Sorry don't want to sound mean but your plan to seal it is just nonsense. With nothing to hold that seal in place and pushing against flimsy sheet metal it won't seal very well or for long. And who is to say the plug will get tight at just the right time to put enough pressure on the rubber...

The best carb would have a working choke and accelerator pump, with no vacuum leaks. And it wouldn't be a Holley!

Measure. Make sure you have proper bearing clearance. Your crank journal may not be round. What is the oil pressure, do you run a mechanical gauge?

Usually only one heated freeze plug in the engine. You can see it in the photo on pass side middle hole. If it had 2 block heaters it would have 2 cords to plug in. The big problem is there is a freeze plug behind each. motor mount bracket, and that is the big problem with engine in the car...