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Life has ups and downs. I don’t see any downs for you, just life’s things happening. DO NOT SELL. It will be there for you in the future and it will be a great day To finish it up. If you sell it the money will be gone and your car will all be just a distant memory. the economy is bad now...

Yes when voltage is down amps are up, which is hard on the pump motor, switch and every connection In the system. Run the engine @1200 rpm when operating the convert top and power windows. Your electrical system will thank you.

That doesn’t look like any undercoating I’ve seen. I don’t see any undercoat on the floor pan either. It looks like rust scale flaking off.

Some C-bodies have fender tag held on with rivets, round head not rosette. see example from July 1970 D plant

The factory put the body over the subframe and drivetrain combo. It is not a problem. BUT, you need some room and equipment to do this at home. Do you have the front end sheetmetal on the car or is it all off. factory undercoaitng is tough and if it is still sticking to the car then leave...

The smaller the socket is the less fudge room you have to get a metric to fit a standard. Worked at dealerships in the late 80’s on up and what a pain in the rear end with half metric half standard. 11/32 starter nut is a non issue in the big scheme of things.

1/4” socket sets from the pro tool brands have an 11/32 socket in them. Can’t tell you about K mart or harbour fright

That’s not plastic it aluminum.

Jump all over that deal! Fender bolts are 5/16 x 18

That stock 440 will have plenty of go. Porting and bigger cam can hurt bottom end, then you need a converter and gears and that can hurt cruising and drivability.

After all these years I’d like to see an emblem on a car that states “sports fury” or “sports satellite”

How many miles on the odometer? Change engine oil and filter. Remove distributor and drive gear, prime oil pump with a drill While rotating engine so it oils the rocker arms. Change trans filter and fluid. Drain the torque converter(it’s easy). I like Dexron fluid. Don’t know whats...

Generally the lower hinge is the one that wears. So moving the lower hinge to the rear at the body will have the door back up where it should be. I do this many times on old mopars, works great. But there is a point that the hinge wear is too much and this won’t work. Moving the top hinge...

Gloss looks bad in a mopar, especially a stock restoration. Suede is whats it’s called. Not shiny, not even a little. spray it on dry, not like you want it to flow out and shine.

That really looks like the gasket is on backwards. We should see the lock strip seam with the trim off. Unless the new gasket is made wrong.

The glass is way to big to do by yourself. It is tricky. Not a job for a beginner. Be very careful of glass shops, all they do on late model cars is install the glass with urethane. You don’t want that on your Chrysler products windshield with a gasket. No matter how they try to tell you it...

Speedo cable is larger diameter than the vacuum line. The OD of the speedo grommet is much smaller than the vacuum line grommet. Wouldn’t fit the hole at all. # on speedo cable grommmets are 2216552 # on trunk vacuum line grommet 2426712. Neither of these 2 grommets are the same material as...

I’ve not seen a grommet by the latch. Thinking this over there is no movement of the vacuum line there, everything is fixed. At the hinge area it moves every time the lid is opened, so it needs help to avoid abrasion. 66 fury also has lights in the lid, what other C-bodies do? 66-67 Plymouth...

I don’t know where that one is from. But they had things like that at a dealership to mark the cars needed to be addressed right away. I worked there and when a customer was waiting they wanted the get them on their way quickly.

Right stuff is,dead wrong also. Proceed with caution. looks like they are tying to get us to send original lines so they can make them correctly. Doing their homework for them, but it helps the hobby doing it.