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A thankless task for sure.

Call Bob http://www.restorationradiators.com/heatercoreresto.htm

A bit late if your compressor is already installed, but you should make sure the rebuilt unit has the spring and rubber check ball. The last couple of re-mans I went through did not. They are part of the oil system.

Do your research on the remans first.

I talked to Chris from CC late last month but they didn't have one in stock to check and I don't want to hack up the OEM shroud.

Any of you guys out there that have a 26" Cold Case radiator and are using the factory shroud - how does it fit ? Did you need to modify the shroud and/or mounting points to make it work ? Specifically, I'm looking at the MOP757A ('66-'70) but welcome any input. Thanks

Thanks James, those pictures are a big help. :thumbsup:

Thank you. So it doesn't show in the fsm, but I'm assuming the gasket(s) are between the front cover and the rear cover with the heater core sandwiched in between ? I'm going by the picture in the fsm on page 24-81. It would appear as though that's where it is leaking from.

Thanks Dave

Ok fellas, I just charged the a/c in the '70 Sport Fury and I had water dripping inside the car. It's very humid out and I'm sure it's condensation from the evaporator. My question is how is it supposed to get outside of the vehicle ? There is a sizable puddle under the car as well so it...

Yes, both 4 Season compressors had check balls, but neither compressor had the spring. Original Air Group has a video that touches on these.

I haven't got that far with it (and really didn't consider it) as my car has ATC I and uses an ETR, which, after fixing the shorted gasket/terminal, works as designed. So the plan was to switch it over from my old compressor regardless of what 4 Seasons did or did not provide.

I'll give you my recent experience with (2) Four Seasons compressors. They come with 3 oz. of PAG oil in them so you will need to drain that out and use mineral oil if you're going to stick with R-12, as I did. Here is a picture of the oil when I drained it out of the REBUILT Four Seasons...

Okay, so I just got off the phone with OAG and they said to use one or the other, but not both (which was my inclination anyway). I'm going with the o-ring only as that is what was there to begin with. I don't know why the fsm differs, mid year change perhaps, but it does. :rolleyes:

So I'm in the process of replacing the O-rings on my a/c system ('69 300) when I hit a snag at the discharge line, leaving the compressor. When I took it apart, there was an o-ring, but no flat gasket. The fsm shows a flat gasket, but no o-ring at this juncture. The kit I received for...

The top picture is the ETR gasket which sits between the low pressure line and the RV2. Notice also the spade terminal for the electrical connection to activate/deactivate the solenoid. Here is a picture of an ETR valve, p/n 2837402, pirated from eBay.

I was curious as to why they choose to use two different valves (EPR/ETR) and came across this in a 1970 fsm. This E T R (evaporator temperature regulator) control was chosen for the Auto-Temp system because the E P R used on Standard A / C cars would not prevent coil freeze-up at the...

Jeff, do you have a source for these ?

I think you mean the TXV, no ? The EPR should be in the RV2.

Okay, so now I'm a bit confused. I thought the EPR ( evaporator pressure regulator) was used on the manual system and modulated the refrigerant flow whereas the ETR (evaporator temperature regulator) was used on the ATC system and started and stopped refrigerant flow via a solenoid. If the...