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Get it warmed up so you can hear the noise, then have you Mechanic pick it up on the hoist and run it idling in gear. He may have to run the speed up some, but if it's a bearing he should be able to hear it, a stethoscope really helps

If the vacuum is connected to a ported source it won't change until you open the throttle. If you put full vacuum on the advance and it still doesn't advance the timing then your vacuum advance cannister is bad.

You are really making progress with the car, it looks great

Looks like a really clean survivor, I don't know if I have ever seen a 2dr..... Sharp car.

Sharp car

Congrats on your find, loved the story.

Let's see them at night

Those seats look plush, like driving a couch

It is one of one, so it must be worth more than $7,000 :rofl: Ford's own engines The MKS is totally different than the LS, I have worked on a couple LS's and I am not a fan

It's kinda a shame the way it's been kicked around from owner to owner after the first guy bought it from you. Some one needs to give it the love it deserves.

The original coil should get it's power from the ballast resistor, this will have switched power on the other side of the resistor

When I saw the bulb I figured for sure the socket was gone.

That's what I thought when I asked, but some guy's are pretty anal about original paint and wasn't sure.

Total repaint or just repair and blend?

Turned out great

So the pinion seal went in without any drama eh?

If it's the 9 1/4 it should be easy to get a seal, the seal can be changed with out pulling it all apart and replacing the crush sleeve. I do them alot in GM's, you just need to be cautious when tightening the pinion nut as you don't put too much preload on the bearings.

Thanks for the great story Carmine

Nice work, when I saw the pic's I wondered what material was used, but now questions have been answered.

Some great advice here, not much else to add but do check it out before your trip.