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Heat rises, explained. That's why coolant from hot engine goes in top hose, even on a cross flow top hose is hot hose. Add some initial timing and richen the idle circuit a smidge and it will be fine 230 on a pressurized system is not to bad just needs a little tweaking.

Interesting. Best advice in all of that is change it at correct intervals or time. Antifreeze is cheap compared to the labor on some of these hidden components.

That only works on C bodies. All the other car lines are welded. I'm not sure on the process when the radiator support and inner fenders got put on a C body but those items are body color, with no marks on bolt heads, and the radiator is not body color, so I doubt that was the way C bodies were...

For our benefit it would be great. On their side it would have simplified the QA and manufacturing. Seems like a very old school thinking left over from the body on frame days.

I always understood the A/C W.P. was to slow down the coolant with the large diameter crank pulley, and wide 26" radiator, to give it time to radiate more heat in radiator that is sitting behind a also heat producing condenser. Referring to Steve's post. One thing I have never understood from...

You can "calibrate" the gauge. They are all volt gauges and have a small port on the back that rotates the whole guage works one way or another.

Fin count on radiator recores is a thing. Needs to have tight fin count. The loose ones you can see through are no good.

Your making a problem that does not exist. Needs to be tightened evenly, and not overtightened.

No, why? You need clamping force.

They are 3/8" bolts so 45lbft would be max. I would probably be around 35 if I was going to measure.

Ok I did not know you had put a good unit in there, I thought maybe we were looking at old distributor. My vote is always for a 4 bbl. Thermoquad and a 70s spread bore intake if I had a choice. Like modern fuel injection with a beautiful top end howl.

Your carburetor is lean. It is contributing to your overheating. A/C water pump is supposed to decrease water flow. 1. The crank pulley on A/C cars is always very large diameter and WP pulley is usually smaller than no A/C this makes the pump and fan spin faster. 2. So the pump is actually lower...

LOL, thanks. My lean was with a Holley, you are right though a Eddy is too lean out of the box. The no thermostat is no good. A thermostat is to maintain a minimum temp not control your temp. 200° is not overheating especially on a summer day. Lean is easy enough to check with a choked...

That's my bet and I'm sticking to it. I had this condition in my Challenger for years blamed everything else till everything else was eventually changed. My Charger did not get hot, but since Dave at Woodruff's rebuilt and tuned my TQ I have trouble keeping 160° in it except for the hottest...

My bet is on lean cruise a/f ratio.

Calm down, I'm just messing with Carmine. How much does that trailer weigh? I'm just asking for future reference.

I dunno it looked like it was at 200° (oh no) from the sidewalk. You better put 18 electric fans with stock alternator and melt the bulkhead connector. Then make another thread for advice.:poke:

I bought a old one from a member here(used). He had overheating problems with it. I have not put it on the car, lazy I guess. If you look inside compared to a stock cast iron one some of the bumps look sharper (worse for flow). I was tempted to open up see of the skinny passages for peace of...

Sounds normal to me. Low temp equals no steam pressure with really no need. Top tank would normally run 1/4-1/2 full, but overflow tank should catch overflow on warm up and fluid from the tank will siphon back in as it cools. Allowing for less monitoring of coolant level maintaining proper level

Really need manifold pressures and temps. Honestly sounds like system is too full, not getting the pressure drop into the evaporator thus no cooling I'm assuming the compressor is turning.