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Those are pretty easy to get to spots. Cut out, cardboard templates (flat, no bends) when it goes on the bottom or up other side make another flat piece weld at a 90°

Terrain and stops and starts, as mentioned stop and starts kill mileage. Takes energy to accelerate a mass back to a speed.

Blasphemy, lean burn yes, a reworked TQ and it would be good. Glad the sniper is working for you. Lot of people with carburetor problems still have problems with the sniper. It only cleans things up, not a miracle maker.

Just spit balling ideas of why loose bolts

What year was the 440 they swapped in? Basically 1973 up have external balance crankshafts they need torque converter weights and different harmonic balancers. While your sorting everything, make sure it is matched to the required external pieces.

Has a 19 spline input shaft and cable shift system. Unless you want to change everything, shifter, converter, and trans your better off just rebuilding the one you have.

Good job on the car. Most likely a void in the casting when machined. The head probably passed all other quality checks so a simple resize on one core plug is not a big deal. It will never be a issue on a 15 year lifespan of the car. I was going to say timing as you problem with carburetor, but...

I should be making more, the 284/.484 cam kills it. The dynamic CR is probably crap. Cam was already bought and paid for so in it went. My point was milling heads is IMO not worth the effort. OP will be farther ahead with carb correction and timing, also heat crossovers block off.

Not really, I have a set of 516 castings that have 1.74 exhaust, and a fair amount of porting and enough milled off them to yield a 73cc chamber(very small by big block standards), these on a 73 std bore 400 only yielded a 8.43:1 C.R. with fel-pro gaskets, a drop to steel shim would have gained...

I hate to go down this path. Here goes. Milling the heads is useless without milling the deck and a piston change. Now you are into a complete build. Any pistons you are getting off the shelf that don't cost $800-$1000 a set are going to put you right back in crap compression ratio. Someone...

The lock at top right of the drawing is to lock the wheel when shut off. Nothing to do with T&T.

Too much vacuum advance. Aftermarket vacuum advance seem to not have any tension on the spring in canister. They go to full advance very easy, usually at too low of rpm. Causes a surging or like a missing type situation, made worse by lean cruise LB, TQ. My 2 cents.

'70 up used that switch.

Still looking for plastic lights for my 69 Barracuda to save weight. No I don't want the stacked up LED rows.

Fluid will push out from cold to operating temp. That's what the recovery tank works off of. If you have a guage and a light the light is on a seperate switch.

That's a beautiful car, Merry Christmas.

Drive back, if your uncomfortable with mechanicals maybe the car is not for you.

Did you ever put a air fuel ratio gauge on it? Still seems like a lean miss.

As much as I hate to admit it, Chrysler had problems with quality control. Your car is near the end of the road for big blocks, so porosity and thin spots/core shift could be a problem.

If you do pull the intake make sure to high tak it around the ports, ( indian head works also). Ultra black rtv at ends toward head block intersection and across the china walls.