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Perhaps @marty mopar has one in stock? Also check with Murray park.

Agree. Corrosion is the enemy when it comes to these terminals. Sometimes I've added solder the factory terminals to make them more bullet proof, because if they're in an exposed location, corrosion breaks down the connection between the terminal and the wire.

I agree with Big John that it would not run if the chain jumped a tooth. Speaking from experience. Perhaps the valves need adjusting or you have a sticking valve? This is what comes to mind with the backfiring. Not out of the question to have sticking valves after having work done, if there...

I don't care for those aluminum crimp terminals. I used to use them, but have since tooled up to using factory style Packard terminals (double barrel crimp and soldered).

All is working well with the NORS Dorman gears/bushings I installed years ago...and surprisingly, the Cardone motor too.

Dust control on his driveway maybe? haha...

Autolite recently redesigned their plugs. At least the 86s. The base is now plated where before it was blued steel. I will probably go back to using standard heat range NGKs after the engine rebuild. They're nice quality. won't make a difference in performance but I appreciate attention to...

When our goods are made by the chicoms, Hunter and the Big Guy get a cut of the production, and the Turtle gets a kickdown from the shipping (his wife's family owns a chicom shipping outfit lol)

This guy is the best. He also has a good video on voltage drop. Excellent material.

Sometimes you can have current percolation between terminals across the accumulated residue on top of the battery. That's why batteries must be always maintained in a clean state. They make battery cleaner just for this application. Edit: This won't drain a battery overnight, though....

x2 on Rhode Island Wire for parts. You probably won't find any of the specialty connectors but the 1,2, and up block connectors they have. They sell new blade style terminals as well. Get a good set of double barrel crimpers to go with that and you'll be set for life. oxidation = resistance =...

True, the ring centering is critical as it wants to move all over the place. I wish the sending unit had a thicker flange with six screws holding it to the tank; that would be a lot more secure. Interesting note - when i removed my original tank, sending unit, and gasket a few years ago, the...

I've always just used a flat screwdriver, as a drift or crossways like a lever. No difficulties. What's all the fuss?

Thanks for the detailed photos and description. So basically this bypasses the bulkhead connector that is prone to corrosion because of its semi-exposed location.... It's still important to inspect the rest of the connectors and pack them with grease. For the C bodies with the earlier style...

Since it hasn't been said yet I'll say it: try not to die.

I installed a Remy remanufactured unit from Rock Auto, works great. They split off from Delco-Remy a while ago. Also have a Remy starter, works great as well, but my only complaint is it doesn't have the classic Mopar starter sound.

I tried asking for the resistance readings from a few vendors on ebay before purchasing their overpriced new or NOS senders. Especially since a lot of them are listed "no returns". The responses I received were either crickets or an "FU".... so I didn't bite. So for now I am still relying on...

Always watch out for that big terminal when working with tools in the area....better yet disconnect the battery. As they say, "try not to die"....haha

:wideyed: That's industrial art right there! I believe the code "A1A, A1B, A1C, etc" is the circuit ID. For example in buildings you see similar labels such as PNL-2A CKT-5