Search results for query: *

The Mopar boxes were all I really wanted....lol

Interesting - different p/n than the same one that I used. Looks like the one you used might have been packaged for export...?

I am not sure of the hose seal sizes but I just picked up a box of various sizes green o-rings, that I found at the parts store. Besides that, the rest of the gaskets and seals deal with the compressor: - gasket kit (heads, rear suction inlet at EPR valve, front outlet). - front seal kit...

The FSM ('73 at least) details how to make and mark a dipstick for checking the sump. If I recall, I also had to make a tiny funnel. If your RV2 has been inactive for a long time and with no oil, it probably needs to be rebuilt. They're sensitive.

The compressor could probably use a rebuild too. If you have brown 'goo' coming out, that probably includes rust in suspension and it's source is the compressor casting. I have seen similar goo even in the sump of a "rebuilt" compressor.

805 area code means that he's close to me!

I like how it says "Material: Metal"..... what type of metal did you end up with?

PICO Wiring 5665PT Pico Connector Pigtails | Summit Racing

I recommend going to a local "good" auto parts store, if exists in your area, or hardware store, with sending units in hand, and piecing together your assembly at the store. This is something where you need to see the whole lot of available parts to achieve the best outcome.

Are the sending units 1/2" pipe thread? I'm not sure if there was ever a "factory" manifold connection for two sending units but you could build a solid setup from off the shelf automotive style brass fittings.

That's an old style V-cell core. I am surprised to see that type used in a 1973 car. You can get it recored with a modern brass tube and fin style core....not sure if they still do that in Europe or not.

None taken. I didn't know the appropriate term so modern is all that came to mind, haha....

Dryer a must, but the condenser is just aluminum tubing and should only need to be flushed out.

Talk to the folks at vintage air, they are very helpful. When I was looking at doing this previously, I believe it was Curtis from there who explained the process to me: - Evacuate the old refrigerant, take apart the system and flush it out of all old oil. This would ideally include a...

Original coolant too? :poke:

How much weight is saved....maybe 10-15 lbs? I'm always weary when it comes to mixing metals across a sealing surface on an engine.

Also change the compressor oil.... I recall that 134a conversions require removal of the EPR valve at the back (suction) of the compressor, and installation of a thermostat on the line going into the evaporator. R-12 systems are regulated by the EPR valve with the compressor always engaged, and...

If you plan to use the rebuilt unit, I recommend (very carefully) pulling the front cover off and inspecting the seal and shaft (don't touch the seal though!) Sometimes these sit on the shelf for a long time and develop corrosion in these areas which will render your seal ineffective. Also, if...

I too got a 4-Seasons compressor and had the exact issues that you did! Sump full of crud and the seal went bad. My guess is that these units might be sitting on the shelf for a while. I got a new front seal and it's been charged with R-12 for more than three years now and still blowing cold. I...

What parts are missing? The compressor? You can get one from rock auto, or even a used one from a swap meet or somebody here and rebuild it. If you stay with R-12, then the hard part will be finding an EPR valve, which is a plug like thing that slips in the rear bung of the compressor, suction...