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I can tell you that the tech guys do not have it easy man. I do tech support at Painless wiring and when you deal with as many calls as we do it gets a little hard to make it through the day much less the week sometimes. It's not a script but you also need to realize that we get so many of the...

I don't know what you are planning on using to control the trans but take a look at this. I have it on my every day driver and am actually looking to do the very same thing you are doing on yours and will run this on it if I do. http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/p.php?s=66501&sb=Go%21

It was likely a Street and Performance harness.

Sorry boss but we do not offer a harness for the Hemi engines right now. Looked into it and the only way we could get all of the connectors to do it would have cost a fortune and we would have had to buy a ton of them in order to make the deal and they weren't up to doing it.

I do know that Holley is now making a harness that will work with their computers for these engines. It is making me think about doing this swap with a turbo into my Fury.

My local O'Reily keeps straight 40 in stock for me and I change the oil every year weather it needs it or not! LOL. And Penn is much more than 10 cents a quart more than VR1 is.

Why don't you use the one out of the donor car you have? I have one that is in my car and has been freshly flushed and painted. Just not 100% sure I want to part with it. If you go back the aluminum route do you want an electric fan and shroud on it as well? I am a dealer for Afco racing which...

This is where many people end up going the wrong way in thought processes. You are correct that an electric pump pushes but that is what it does. A mechanical pump will pull fuel to the pump then push it to the carb. If you do not mount the fuel pump (electric) low enough your problems will get...

Go to your local Napa or O'Riely auto parts and just get a Mr. Gasket or their house brand pulse pump. 3-5 psi and will have enough flow for a street driven fairly stock engine. I had one on my first car (65 4 door Fury) and never had any trouble out of it even when doing 100+ for quite a while...

Just needs the correct zoomies coming out of the hood when you get it back on and it will be perfect!

Its good to know there are options out there. Thanks for posting!

I believe they are frams as well. I haven't used them and don't know anyone that does. Like John said hastings or wix is all I use anymore. Never had a problem out of either one.

For one I would NEVER run a fram. I have built a couple of engines for people and they supplied them and I could not get oil pressure with a fram on the car. Change the filter and boom oil pressure. I use Wix for everything. Napa filters are also wix filters. Fwiw.

I run Valvoline VR1 either 40 or 50 depending on which car and engine. The tired ones I run 50 in. Engines I just built I run 40 in. Never had any troubles out of any of mine with it.

They were and still are used in Crane's for industrial use so yes they are very tough engines. Steel crank engines. I beat mine to death and it wouldn't die!

On my old one that the jamb nuts were worn out I ran both at .0020 and the intake would not gain as much as the exhaust when closing up after running and I never had an issue with mine. But some will probably scold for that method. Ran that way for about 4 years before I pulled the motor.

Sounds like a high horsepower sewing maching just like mine did at the end of every week til I adjusted the valves! Sounds great. Always makes you feel great when you get to hear it come to life again doesn't it? Great job now work on getting it back together and get it on the road! Congrats!

Transmission or the converter is likely starting to go bad. Reverse will put more of a load on the engine. It may be as simple as a band adjustment.

You shouldn't have to but it will take some really good wiggling and pulling to get the old one out more than likely.

It makes it much harder to get them out if you do that. I would pull them and try to clean the threads. There is no A, LA, B, or RB engine that the head bolts go into a water jacket. The only thing you ever have to worry about that with is the end exhaust manifold bolts or studs.