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Welcome to our club! You won’t have to wait to get the car running and driving to find your original- just buy the one from detmatt and yours will turn up shortly after!

I tried one of these, years ago, on my ‘68 Road Runner and it leaked horribly! The little sealing lines didn’t line up well with the recesses on the trans flange, so it didn’t seal at all. I don’t see how you guys get this to seal on a 727 but kudos to those who do!

I used the regular “small” rods in my ‘66 300 440 when I built it in the ‘80s. I run a six-pak intake. The rotating assembly was custom-balanced and reliably pulls 6000 RPM.

1970 383s were all internally balanced from the factory. However, it is well worth the extra money to take the rotating assembly to a reliable engine balancer and have it balanced. They will likely add external weights and your engine will run smoother and quieter, plus it will rev faster and...

$150K and he’s not throwing in the shipping? I’m out.

When I totalled the ‘65 Fury III convertible, 383 four-speed, head-on into a semi, at age 16, my Dad bought a ‘69 383 four-speed Super Bee. He said that a teenage boy “should have a hot car”. I’m still driving like a maniac, at age 65. Luck of the draw!

I would not be caught dead with Ford parts on my Mopars! I put a B-body 60 in my bro’s ‘66 300 but I already had it. Had to weld on new spring pads. It’s a bit tight to the leaf springs, since it’s 2” narrower. I put 10” Cragars with 295/50 R15s and still used the skirts. I had to use 1/4”...

Looks completely normal to me.

I used to do fleet service for Yellow Cab in the early ‘80s and we had about ten ‘73 and ‘74 slant six Satellites and Coronets, all with about 300K miles on them, with original engines. They were run 24/7 with religious 3K oil changes.

Not ‘66 C. They’re the same as B for ‘66 and later.

Used is your only hope. Have you tried Murray Park? Your old one can be repaired if you can’t find a good used one.

Toward the horns.

Sounds like torque converter shudder. It’s trying to lock up but won’t quite do it.

If the “six-pak” crank was balanced differently, it wouldn’t have needed external weights. I always heard that they were hand-selected, given extra journal chamfering and also flame-hardened.

For years I’ve heard that ‘70 440 HP engines were made both ways, ‘71 HPs are all wide-beam rods and most ‘72 HPs are also. Decades ago, I bought a ‘71 440 HP with trans out of a ‘71 Newport 4dr in the junkyard. The VIN verified it as correct. It was orange and had the wide-beam rods with...

No. Although the only difference in the block itself is the HP stamp. “HP” stands for “High Performance” which is not the 350 horsepower version.

‘70 is generally more valuable on the open market, if it’s an HP.

What intake are you using? 600 cfm is fine. I would argue that an edelbrock carb will perform better and be more reliable than a 600 Holley.

I believe that there may be elements to the story behind this engine that the PO failed to share with you. I wouldn’t change anything if I decided to try to run it.