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There is not supposed to be voltage at the sending units; that’s not how it works. The voltage is supplied to the gauges, via the 5v limiter. The sending units send a varied resistance to ground signal to the gauge. You should never see any voltage at the sending units.

I just noticed that I erred and your car is a ‘66. I do know those and that connector is not for the ammeter. I’m not sure off the top of my head, what it’s supplying but it’s not to the ammeter. I don’t have a ‘66 wiring diagram but the ‘66 just has two wires for the ammeter. Tracing the...

‘64s Cs are not my specialty but it is unlikely that the three/pin connector is for the ammeter itself. Rather, it likely is connecting to the circuit board. A wiring diagram (FSM has them) and a bit of electrical knowledge will be helpful. You need to identify which circuits burned and why they...

It’s interesting To see that Ma Mopar knew that the bulkhead connector wasn’t really adequate from at least 1966!

I must point out that the 5v regulator on the cluster has nothing to do with the dash lights. They run on 12 volts. Most of the gauges use the 5v supply. That’s it.

There is a 5 amp fuse in the fuse box, for the dash lights. Make sure that it’s good. If it is, it’s most likely the dimmer switch that’s bad. There are other possible causes but they’re unlikely.

The first thing to check is the ground. Run a wire from the motor case to a good ground.

Lol not full but there’re enough for me in there.

In the olden days, I found that my 440s and 383s only liked Champions. These days I use NOS Mopar plugs that are still readily available in my barn.

Logic. It’s what’s for dinner.

Forgive me, I was in manual mode. Since your car is an automatic, put the ground wire on the terminal that the smaller brown plug-on wire goes to.

Right. Anywhere on the metal.

Try jumping a wire from the battery negative terminal to the case of the relay.

Don’t plug a flasher into that connector; (you’d have to modify it to do so.) I’m not sure what it’s for but not a flasher.

The little black plastic tab that the felt pen points to is for activating the key-in-ignition buzzer. It is correct that the inner cylinder should turn inside its housing. You need a locksmith or somebody like me to see if the cylinder can be saved with a clean up and new tumblers. If there are...

Great that you got it running!

The issue is also complicated by the ballast resistor. The coil only receives full voltage during cranking. Otherwise the ballast resistor is key.

A 12v coil will have a weak spark in a 6v system.

All this assumes that it isn’t just your severely-carboned plugs. Check for spark to the plug, as opppsed to through the plug. And get new plugs for sure!

If it is truly a situation of spark from coil, but no spark at the plugs, here is the great news: it must be the cap and/or rotor and/or ignition wires. There is absolutely no other possibility!