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I’m running r134a in my ‘72 Imp w/Auto Temp II, with no problems. I initially had to replace the servo, amp, pushbutton switch, compressor and amp connector.

I used an NOS seal and it did have surface rust from the packaging but it was not on the sealing surface, which was not rusty. It sealed just fine.

You forgot to capitalize “MAJOR”. That’s one of the worst models to R&R the HVAC box!

Sorry! Guess I killed it when I updated, lol. Getting old sucks!

Lol, now that I look at the diagram, I see that the diode is not needed. When I first designed it in my head, I was thinking that it would trip the relay on lower fan switch selections but that is obviously not the case. I believe I overthought it!

Here’s a wiring diagram: Update: the diode is unnecessary. Thanks, D Cluley!

It’s a common problem with old C-bodies. What I did was got a 30-amp relay with wiring and mounted it under the battery tray, then wired the +12v relay output directly to the fan input (at the fan), through a 30 amp diode. I wired the relay pick signal directly to the blower fan switch (removed...

Yes.

I’ll say a bit more on this: I absolutely despise ATC II. It is expensive and problematic and finicky. It is however, quite simple to understand and diagnose. It certainly gets more difficult from there out. 78Brougham is absolutely right to warn most people off.

And when I say simple, what I mean is logical and easily understood in operation. It is not some unfathomable mystery!

George’s method requires a VOM and a couple clip leads. I absolutely hate ATC II (and ATC I for that matter). I would MUCH prefer to have regular controls. It is a simple system, to my mind but it is finicky, expensive and lackluster, for sure!

I’m so sorry for you! You may have ATC II-induced PTSD! I went through the huge gamut of repairs myself. We could start a support group!

Definitely George Murphy at Performance Analysis can help you immensely. Commando1 has the tester if you want to take the factory approach.

Sweet! The Holy Grail! Very reasonable price, Stan.

Here’s the link: 865-482-9175 I said “Performance Analysis has...” I did not say “Performance Analysis has, available on their website...” George Murphy is a friendly guy. Push the link and leave a message. He’ll call you back.

You can easily test the servo, by jumping +12v into the correct terminals at the amplifier. Performance Analysis has a one-page diagnostic sheet (very small writing, front and back) that walks you through the process.

I’m sorry I’m not there to help. This problem literally takes five minutes to diagnose if you know what to do. Run the two tests I gave you and report back.

Run this test first.

The ‘68 Mopars don’t work like a GM product. There is no little hole in the front. You have to remove the switch assembly before you can pull the ignition.

The way to test the neutral switch (and its wire) is to ground the relay terminal at the terminal where the brown wire connects. That simulates a good switch.