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Warpage from welding in patches is a likely cause. Also, there is not much clearance between the inner and outer panels in that area. When rust starts forming there it swells and warps the panels, well before it rusts through.

Good job and it’s great that you found the part there!

i wish that I could make panels like these! I would like to learn from this man.

FIFY

Very nice work!

Very nice car! I love that roof. ‘67s are special to me also. Time for some wheels. If you don’t know the full story on the car, it likely has been repainted. 51 years is a long time for original paint to look so nice.

It’s a healer!

I will guess that the difference is a federally mandated safety update, going by the calendar year change. Perhaps an override so that the door opens from inside, when locked? The two styles should be interchangeable.

Butt welding is always best unless you are duplicating a factory flange weld. Cut a rectangular patch that will cover the hole, then curve it to fit behind as best as you can. Hold it in position and mark the outline. Cut out the marked area on the inside of the line. File/grind the patch and/or...

It’s plastic. Even though it breathes through vents in the top, it could definitely cause localized solvent pop because it could randomly trap any breathing that the paint may still need to do. I’d wait at least six months before using it on fresh paint.

That appears to be either water or solvent popping through. The cover may have caused the popping or at least contributed. The types of cover and paint would make a difference. Single-stage enamel, covered with a plastic cover would probably pop pretty quick after only 30 days.

Mig welding is actually pretty easy. A little practice and you’ll get the hang of it!