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If you were to ground the feed wire at the sender, turn the key to 'on', does the dash gauge go to full? I used to use a remote starter push button for this as my shop was a one man show.

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I suggest testing with an OHM meter before installing. You will need to have continuity between terminals "R" and "I" while rotating the thumbwheel

I rebuild 4-5 of this type per month. You do need to get it apart (the rivets) to get at the corrosion that is between the contact (green corrosion) and the rheostat (spring)

$95, including the return ride. I would be happy to test the switch for you, no charge.

1969 Imperial had 2 different style dimmers. This style I rebuild This style I do not You might want to at least feel up behind it to see if it is even plugged in.

There is a circuit breaker inside the variable switch that will open / close due to heat (too much of a draw somewhere). I have rebuilt easily hundreds of this type(A,C and E and Imperial have the same internals). If you have a factory shop manual it will explain how to test the motor...

Would this duplicate the symptoms? Battery charger hooked up, engine OFF Key on ACCY Heater ON Fan on HIGH Sit down, watch a ball game in the garage, wait........

It wouldn't hurt to install a relay. I have seen plenty of the plastic push button switches with the blower terminals melted.

If your chrome 'toggle' is missing then chances are it is because the lower part (pictured) has cracked open. Almost any used one will do the same thing while trying to remove it from the switch body. Tight fit and very brittle plastic.

2631383 for non-tilt (A, B, and C bodies) 2496192 Tilt (C and Imperial) I hope this helps

If that doesn't pan out I can rebuild yours. Feel free to send me a pm Devin

Howdy, neighbor. While you're in there make sure the terminal in your plug that mates up with B2 on your switch (usually pink wire) is hot at all times. This is power in to the switch for your dash lights. I can't tell from your pic what the front of the rheostat (spring) looks like, but if...

"On the outside of the switch".... Are you referring to the metal case of the switch? If so, then yes, it is a ground

B1 is only for headlamps B2 will power up P(or R) and T (If so marked) and I (Instruments, through the ceramic rheostat assembly)

Will this do? If so PM me your address (again?) and it's yours It was in my clock parts cabinet. I have no clue what it came off of.

Have you tried a local hardware store? Most have a section with many different spring types / lengths. This may be what you have to do?

Was this video in your garage, or outside, away from metal buildings?

I hope you find something simple. Maybe even corrosion on the back side of the switch, and or terminals