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Two styles were available, and both are available used and aftermarket / repro. Standard was a 2 post, if I remember correctly. If you have that they are the same LH and RH Optional was a LH remote. If you have that the RH matches the style and is readily available (A, B and C body are the...

You have 2 terminals that should be hot at all times. B1 and B2 If you have an ohm meter you can check resistance For headlights B1= power in, H=power out (to the floor hi/low switch). You should see an open circuit between the 2 terminals when OFF and PARK. HEADLIGHT ON position you should...

There were 2 different switches that could have been installed. One with the black plastic body, or one with a metal body (with black plastic back) Do you know which you have?

No problem rebuilding it. What exactly is it doing, or not doing?

It is a factory gauge for sure, made to run off the voltage limiter's 5.5 (+ -) voltage. Could be NOS, could be nice used. Some of the used ones I have sold were this clean.

Will this help? This is a 67-68 Chrysler (not Imperial) cluster

I would shoot WD40 on all of the linkage/pivots/tracks/rollers etc. Windows and locks. Even the door latches. You may just get them working if you keep clicking up/down/up/down. Be happy if the windows only go an inch, then 2 inches, etc. Same with the locks. Don't hold the switch or lock button...

You may only have to clean up the female connectors inside the block. I have seen very light corrosion there, between the pins on the switch and the inside of the block. I hope it's that simple

Is it the switch that you have to fiddle with, or is it the 10 wire connector on the back of the switch that is the problem?

From what I recall only HP engines had the VIN stamp in 1968, and this old post jives with it: Matching Numbers defined