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After years driving around the bush, my only go-to is a pair of 25' jumper cables made up using old welder cables. They stay flexible in -40C weather, simple but hard to beat! LOL

Is the "heat" coming from the wire wound resistors? They will produce heat depending on which fan speed is selected. I would remove the little panel and see how the resistors are connected at the back. That should make it easier to figure what wire to each connector.

Senior moment!!

Yes 10R is 10 gauge AWS and the R is red -not the color table lower right.

I prefer to make my own custom cables, you get to control the quality of the components and assembly. Also custom allows you to route the cables to look neat and to keep them away from the exhaust manifold.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Story Time Back in 1978 my ragtop started doing strange things, the ammeter would read funny, the battery kept losing charge and I like you guys started changing parts with the hope of success. Well, new battery, new alternator, new voltage regulator later the problem didn't change. A second...

Check out the 4x4 off road forums, lots of them install secondary batteries for winching.

Damn - I want!!

True, but it works in the factory wiring because the total current drawn by the headlights passes thru the switch. The purpose of the relay conversion is to remove that high current from both the switch and the bulkhead connector. As such the headlight switch only passes the minimal current...

Just be safe and when your dependents are involved - be even more careful. Crap happens and when it does, its usually at the worst possible time, so its your responsibility to make sure it doesn't happen because of something you did or should have done. Be safe!

I agree, marrette wire nuts do not belong in any application where vibration will be present. Constant vibration will potentially loosen the connection. Another factor, wire nuts come in many flavours, the good ones aren't cheap and the cheap ones are dangerous and should be banned. Good ones...

Why glass fuses, wouldn't you be better with self resetting breakers that will pulse the lights instead of leaving you blind? Will you post a circuit diagram, I'd like to see how you've tied into the factory harness. When you crimp your terminals. force some grease into the wire end, multi...

I'd disconnect it at the alternator, insulate the end so it can't short to ground and tie it up out of the way. Alternately just cut it off and discard. In reality, leave it in place, it won't cause any problems.

Exactly and do the headlight relay deal. All the existing wire harnesses remain as is.

Never play any games with a fusible link, it is not a fuse to protect your load, it's there to protect your wiring harness. My Fury was serviced and the mechanic left the alt to battery wire close too but not touching the exhaust manifold. Couple days later, the heat melted the wire's...

Maybe check the voltage regulator to ground connection.

I took that picture before the engine was installed, lots of space, now not so much! Once you are happy with the connection cleaning, coat them with dielectric grease to keep them dry and clean.

Mine did the same kind of thing, I replaced the alternator twice, the regulator without success. Turned out the battery feed thru the bulkhead connector was corroded and overheating.

Got dropped and kicked under the car? I've been known to lock mine inside the car. Loved the Cown Vic I drove for years, it had a keypad on the door. No problems with the Fury convertible either, never been locked. Can't see the reason why to lock a convertible, too easy to cut the top.