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Yes they do, like mine! I disconnected the little fusible link into my bulkhead connector, ran in nice 8 gauge wire to both the battery lead and the black alt lead which were on my ammeter, nicely protect that 8 gauge with a #12 fusible link back at the battery, to protect the starter relay as...

I might be able to help you if I know exactly what year and model you're troubleshooting. Is it like a 72 Imperial? That #10 AWG red looks like an alternator feed, for sure, and in my wiring diagrams, like what you've shown, there's a splice to A1, one leg of which goes to the ammeter in #12...

Those distributor cam lobes DO wear with a lot of variation! I make that a first priority to check when looking over a distributor now, having found the same thing you did when looking at some "well rounded" ones. Getting new (NOS) ones isn't impossible, though care must be exercised to insure...

Run a grounding bond from the negative post on the battery all the way to your back bumper. Bare wire works fine for this, or insulated. Bond it to the front radiator yoke, the engine block, then the firewall, then the gas tank, the trunki aqnd rear bumper. Everything now will be well...

.... IDK who made my senders, though I'm sure they came from China. For the $ they've been good. I would NOT buy a Liland radiator. They look like crap in their pics, as do most others.....

I've been VERY pleased with what I got from these folks! eClassics.com - Restoration Parts | Auto, Car, Truck, Van, Wagon I bought one earlier on eBay, which now works too, though at first it hung up on something sometimes. I keep it as a spare.

You should still be able to heat up that circuit by a hot wire to the ballast resistor. Disconnect the ignition switch lead. Hotwire the ballast resistor and bump the motor over with a screwdriver at the starter relay.

Good to know. I will modernize if I ever get a vehicle so equipped. My '83 D150 got an aftermarket unit when I cleaned the Lean Burn out.

Go under your hood and hotwire the ignition. If the engine runs, then work your way back to the ignition switch. The FSM should tell you what that little plastic part is. I don't do fuselage models, so can't tell you about that, but ignition problems are usually pretty simple stuff. You have...

If you want to get really clever w this: Get a ROTARY toggle switch! https://www.jameco.com/z/G3SR022-R-Jameco-ValuePro-Rotary-Switch-2-Pole-6-Position-Make-Before-Break-Solder-Lug_101574.html?CID=GOOG I think 2P 6T should suffice for most non-digital minded folk. Now, you will need a bank...

Chris, 1. I see you're lugging your charge lead to the tensioning bolt on your battery terminal. That can cause you grief. Get a pair of MARINE battery terminals, with the lug studs separate from the tension bolts. These are MEANT to connect to lugged leads, which will simplify your...

Ah. OK, so it's the internal wire you saw burnt out in the gauge itself. Wasn't sure. You're QUITE RIGHT then. Yes, DO get the solid state "limiter" instead of that crude Victorian thermo-electric crapola Ma Par used in her dash recipe. I think you can score a voltmeter gauge which will work...

So, the gauge wire burned up eh? Now, have you TESTED the gauge itself with a 5V source, and an ohmmeter and continuity tester? You should try this before assuming for sure that the gauge itself is defective, and NOT either the crude power supply used by Chrysler, which very well might have...

I understand bad backs. Get the Klein drill-tap, some good dope to cope, and best of luck to you w it.

See my other answer. It's really absurdly easy man. Other drivers use sheetmetal screws, but I like a tapped, machined product. If one botches the job, the sheetmetal screws remain an option.

The sheetmetal isn't terribly thick, but it's thick enough with a stop nut. I tapped that thing in IN SITU, using a short Klein drill tap chucked into a 1/4" socket driven by a 1/4" drive ratchet. Easy peasy! No column removal required. Now you DO need to be able to crawl down to the base of...

Attractive as a freshly made part would be, I think from a cost/benefit POV, I'd just tap a 1/4-20 stud in where the plastic pops up to move the switch. I did so, and it works perfectly.

Look on P 8-93 of the FSM for the fuel gauge hookup: See it? In the cut out I pasted, its just to the left of the ammeter. The power supply is above it. Look for a blue wire which runs from the gauge to a 6 connector plug, also fed by a black wire off the headlight switch. You CAN test...

Just replace the bad stuff then. I've reached the point where I don't care to pay for premade plug wires. I buy whatever conductor I need, and terminate the wires after custom cut and fit. I use Rajah screw together ones with bakelite insulators. Still, one MUST crimp the distributor...

Saw some very interesting socks, putatively made of woven basalt instead of mere sand (silicone -> glass) Still see no need, for moi. I found some thick aluminum tape which I will roll around my plug wires, stopping any RF flux coming off or into them. Might be interesting for the EE's and...