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The video is correct about several things for sure. It's big. And does have plenty of power. And does transmit more road than big Fords. The big fords are the easiest cars to drive that I'd ever driven. I don't fault them at all. But lots of body lean. It doesn't seem to have anything to do...

He says the Impala cost a lot less to own and repair than his much faster European cars. He said the repair, parts and maintenance bills on his other cars are horrendous and putting miles on the cars kills the value of the cars. When I go to visit him, we drive his big Mercedes diesel most of...

Chineseum "pre-warped" Rotors

If it's just the driver's side, and the driver's side runs hotter than the passenger side when checked with the temp gun after a trip around the block, I would suspect a clogged rubber hose, corroded caliper piston, or binding caliper slide. If both sides run hot, I would suspect the presents of...

That's not good. I just put the complete 11.75-disc swap from a 78 Cordoba on a 64 New Yorker drum car and it works very well. Excellent in fact. The drums brakes did work well with the new 72 New Yorker rear drums all around, but nothing like the disc setup. Smooth, even, powerful, straight...

Oh.

8 3/4? 2.91 or something? Give it a 3.91.

3.91 posi rear.

Are the ball joints bad or just the boots?

Amen on the enamel clean up.

My friend in Germany has a few European go-fast cars, but does most of his high-speed cruising in a 1996 Chevy Impala SS. He says it's the best way to cruise at 200 kph for long distances, all things considered.

Oh, that's a heavy car. Maybe figure out how much power and what gear you want and go at it from that persecutive.

Yes, it a home job. The long arm improves in town following because the truck doesn't swing the car one way before it goes the other way in tight turns. Much better on the highway also. No sway.

I don't have any play going down the hwy when the over center high spot in the original box is not worn and is adjusted right. And they are finger effort steering responsive. I think the increased effort is a result of stiffer reaction springs being installed. There's a lot going on in that box...

Does "tighter" mean "stiffer" and requires more effort to turn the steering wheel? And more caster to get the wheel to return to center? That's the complaint I have.

Regarding the steering box leak. I've been MUCH happier resealing them myself than sending a good working box that had a leak out to be serviced. They didn't come back with the same feel as when I sent them out. And the parts store rebuilt units NEVER fell the same. The problem was always...

Yep.

Some of it. For driving. Looking for more. I don't fixate on the defects so much if I can drive a different car every day.

This doesn't sound too stressful.

Those failed on a 73 I had years ago. I used a piece cut from a lift track that the rollers ride in to lift the window. About 2 inches long. Adjusted the gap to taste. Drilled the old out and bolted the new in. Worked well, no concessions.