Search results for query: *

Thats way cool.

My straight from Vans 64 full-size car tank was just peachy. Ordered the tank, paid the bill, got the tank shortly thereafter, tank looks good, tank fits good. The install, fitment and adjustment of the economy sender and pickup I sourced elsewhere? That's on me. Parts are rarely factory parts...

I suppose knowing about empty is more important than knowing about full. Being as I generally know how much is in it when I just filled it up. I also adjust the pickup to hit the bottom, so water doesn't collect there. Or as little water as possible. On the other hand, there shouldn't be any...

I think so. I've been extending the float arm so the float will hit top and bottom.

And your point is?

Regarding the ATF+4 FULL SYNTHETIC fluid. I don't know what fluid Dodge put in my 93 318 Dakota with 3.91 rear gear, big trans and tow package when I bought it new. But I did change it to atf+4 full synthetic as soon (1998 I think) as it came out. I pumped the old stuff out at the cooler lines...

Don't have anything new enough to have muffler bearings. Now you see, that's the whole problem with new cars, all that unnecessary stuff like muffler bearings.

I rarely rinse my manifolds with oil. But when I do, I use full synthetic because it has the best heat resistance.

Yep, KYB shocks ride a bit stiff.

The Nexen 235/75-15 N'Priz AH5 Extra Load white wall max 50 psi tire with a max 2300-pound load rating at 50 psi DOES wear the center when run with 45 psi air pressure on a C body. Feels good in the turns though.

The Hankook Optimo 235/75-15 is not the best riding tire on my 64 C. I like them at 30. Any small deviation didn't produce a lot of ride difference. But 40 was very hard ride.

Pull a spark plug and fill the cylinder with rope. Get it at half travel to reduce wristpin load. On the compression stroke.

I thought the "63" and earlier "sure grip" was the long axle 1.25 thrust block? With pre 64 open having the short axle 1.5 thrust block? And 64 and later open and sure grip are the same short axle 1.5 thrust block? And the post 63 axle will fit all the open rears? But not the pre 64 sure grip...

I don't think they are 79 Birds because that would be a 4 3/4, not your 4 1/2.

I was more interested in the condition of the rotors and are they available. I'm wondering if it's a kit or pieced together home job. It looks like a two-piece bracket. Is that a common arrangement? And a compromising rotor.

Actually, those questions were pondered.

I would attempt to drill new correct size holes in the disc at a different clocking location and replace the lugs with new ones that will work. I would have to clamp the disc together in the drill press and use one disc as a pattern to drill the smaller holes in the other disc, then repeat the...

You're right. The current situation doesn't look good. Like you said, the disc isn't center by anything. Plus, neither the disc "nor" the wheel is hub centric centered. And is it just me, or does there appear to be a lack of clamping force because the nut can't spin down far enough on the lug...

I was assuming the car still had the tapered shaft hubs and the drums have been divorced from them. I would rather not mess with that hub anymore if the "rotor" holes can be re-clocked. I would like to know if the disc is hub centric now.

Why not redrill/relocate the holes?