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I believe it was always operating on or at near max output but ultimately some diodes failed and it started charging at 17volts. Every now and then I did have a drained battery. This has not happened with the tuff stuff alternator and even that drags the voltage down to barely above 12v...

I would say no. I had a powermaster and it failed. I bought a tuff stuff 130amp as a replacement. I have fans, efi, vacuum pump for brakes, upgraded lights...

Have you maybe looked into Deutsch connectors? They are more maintenance free....

Also is that coil mounted on the hot intake? I had a coul die like that before. Overheated.

I put in a starter from a dakota years ago and don't regret it. Sure it sounds different but thats only a few seconds, I prefer the car starting over hearing it crank...

Unplugged voltage limiter?

The limiter plate is the way to go! I used ot before electronic timing control and its super easy!

I gotta revive this for a hot minute. Sorry about that! Haha. I have a question about timing at idle. I have noticed, that when I get into the area where my engine is happy with the idle timing, it will be able to regulate the rpm better. I crept up from 14° in 2°setps and noticed that the...

The clicking could be the coil arching. Put a little dieelectric grease in the boot and maybe on the terminals and see if that helps?

Alright I figured it out.... i did not replace the hazard flasher relay with the LED one... lucky enought I had bought 2 and so i changed that and now it works. There is still some backfeed or something when the flasher are on and you switch the turn signal out of the middle, the instruments...

Interesting... and no, the gauge lights are not connected to the lightswitch. I wanted them permanently on so the lights get the same power as the rest.

Okay so but that does not explain why all the gauges keep flashing when I turn them on... they literally only share the ground wire.

Hmmm I have to check if I replaced the hazard flasher relay when I did my LED conversiin...maybe that is the culprit. I know I did the relay for the turn indicators but now i am not sure about the hazards...

Well, I had thought maybe I somehow got the main power for the dash from the flasher relay or something but I did measure with a voltmeter and it was a switched source that had 12v with ign on. What baffels me is that the indicator lights arent grounded or attached any different before. Before...

I have just installed my custom gauges and I have an issue with my Hazards. Its all wired pretty simply, all gauges and gauge lights share the same ground and power. Then I have a led for brights (which works just fine). And an LED for the parking brake. This one is seperate power and ground...

A word of caution, install a voltmeter. I just threw a powermaster in the trash. 8 years old and started overcharging. I bought a tuffstuff 130amp that seems of better quality. Get a SPAL Fan and a temp controller, easy to wire and easy to set up!

You wont hurt anything by going to a larger wire...

Alright, did what you suggested. Still have to check out where its at! Thank you, you always provide very good and informative feedback!

Thank you. I cant agree more, I constantly flash people too just to find out their lights arent the highbeams. My problem is usually with big trucks behind me, I drive a lifted Jeep SUV and some of those pimped out f350s blind me in the mirrors that are what 5ft high??? Normal sedans with LEDs...

I have recently upgraded my headlights from sealed beam to halogen with LEDs. I have one of those oldschool bubblelevel adjuster and I think I got them pretty close. According to the pics, would you say I need to move the passanger beam over to the right a little? Also, unsure about the...