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I would have chucked that "pressure release" Stant? rad cap at the same time. ^^

Put the pump body in a vise, connect 2 rubber hoses, one on a jam jar of fuel and activate the arm, it will come out like a Tom cat pissing if its good. Easy stuff first.....then, fit B1 heads, sheet metal intake, 2 1050 Dominators if that dont work...LOL Good luck Man i'm only jivin'...

Yes, the rod needs to rest on the back of the cam, hence, "rod as far "in" as poss, gives almost zero preload. Its not totally necc though, if you are a mechanic you can just work around it. Just makes it easier for folk who do not do this job everyday

A blob of grease on the end of the rod keeps it there in place, tip...put your thumb on the push rod and get someone to turn the engine over by hand slowly, when the rod is as far back (in) as it will go, put the pump on, there is hardly any preload on the pump arm at that point and its simple...

I know they are not uncommon there, we are in the UK and Sweden, big difference

There is a small block 727 TF, however, its quite rare as it was largely for the 340 powered cars, T/A Challenger, Demon, etc. I friend has a T/A over here with one in, all orig d/train inc 6-pak

Well, if you did that mate and it worked that's fair enough, I cant argue. I had a vibration I chased for years on my 68 RRunner, changed/did everything, came IN and OUT at 70-80mph, then one day I found it, the lower 180* of the front stub axles had a bad wear ridge on them where the inner dia...

I love the different garnish and lights on Canadian cars, just the small bits make so much difference (to me) I was looking at a Pontiac Beaumont a few weeks ago, my friend didnt know what it was LOL till I explained. Very nice mate.

66 Monaco 4 speed ^^^........sweeeet!

Thats more like it mate, as you say, its still up a bit, it needs to be around the same amount DOWN. Just jack it up under the centre of the axle so its just about ready to take the weight off the stands and thats what the car sees-ish when driving, if you want you cant chuck a bag of sand or...

This was my 300 in the late 80's/90's, because it was so low the prop was actually straight and parrellel with the road, static!......but we didn't care back then and regularly hit 120mph up the motorway 6 up, good times back then, today, not so much

Its all good my friend, i have been messing with these cars 40years and still learn something now and again, we never stop learning, which is good

Has that car got the springs removed in the pic?, I cant see them, it looks like the axle (casing) is just hanging there?.....my eyes aint what they used to be though LOL

You NEVER want 5* up on the diff when the vehicle is static , that means under acceleration the propshaft will be starting to pull the yoke out of the tailshaft, the diff slams UP under accel not down.....hence a snubber to restrict it.

The "axle" means axle/diff housing over here. What you call an axle is called a half-shaft over here so maybe the terminology isn't helping LOL

I'll make this easy, put the car on a 4 poster ramp so weight is on the car, you can not check pinion angle if the weight of the car is not on the axle. Then you put an angle finder on the top of the diff housing and read it, it should be 5* down. You correct it by putting shim wedges between...

If that car is jacked up using the rear axle something is wrong there. To check it, the jackstands must be under the axle and not the frame. Its usually around 5* down but that alters under load if the springs are weak. It should never go up past straight in an ideal World, snubbers to the...

If you get a zero balance, the weight of the oil when running takes that zero away, you check the weight of the piston and rod and if they are within 1 gram carry on, the engine does not even know it. I've been a mechanic for 45 years, 21 of them self employed and built a lot of these engines...

Its a different World Fellas, last year a friend of mine who has Hemi cars, sold a '73 complete engine out of a Jensen needing a rebuild for $3400...yes, thats right, i called him up when the ad finished to see if he had sold it, he said he wished he had another 20 it was in demand that much...

It provides the Earth side of things so the relay will work, if switch goes bad....bloody fortune for a single post switch...$17 for a 3 post......which will not do if a certain valve body plastic quadrant is not fitted. If you ground that wire instead of connecting to the inhibitor switch the...