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You and I have the bookends for the correct one.

I have the earlier style bracket, it doesn't have the tab holding that hose at the front. @detmatt should have th proper '68 piece.

I'll look in the morning for you.

You can if you're talking about flow rates.

If it has the big mount on top of the tail shaft, no, not without swapping parts.

What's adhesive? The valve covers either pour out the back, or they don't. That's been my experience, regardless of what the material is. I would like to do a comparison of cork vs rubber vs won't leak gaskets in the near future.

Ain't that the truth!

I'd probably snatch them up if the price was right.

I put a 440 in my '66, two so far actually. First one was rebuilt but they didn't break in the cam, and I got a season and change before the cam was flat. Stabbed a .484 Purple shaft in, 440 source heads straight out of the box, Eddy Performer intake, and shortly after a rebuilt 727 manual valve...

A pry bar between the back of the housing and the front of the block should easily separate the housing.

Looking at Summits website only shows a center dump header for a '66 300. I don't think that's going to work for you. The fact the person you spoke with could only say they are supposed to work, is very telling. For reference, here's a picture of the Schumacher Tri Y headers. You can see...

That's what I'd do, but I don't care about originality 99% of the time. Better flow, lighter weight, and depending on how much your machinist charges, close enough in price for me to pull the trigger.

Can't wait to drive my Dart again. I forgot what it was like, but it was on gravel roads, with the tires spinning a lot and no brakes! Open headers too...

Because you are! I noticed that in my friends '72 when my legs were basically flat with my feet on the pedals.

I'd go big, big cubes, big cam, a carb at least in the 750 range and those tti headers. Let the thing breathe! What's the point of building a stroker if it's going to be similar to a stock setup? 440 Source heads will be just a bit more than the 906's will cost, with bigger valves, closed...

I've had weird issues like this with a couple of my cars. Can you jump the terminals on the relay and get it to crank? I did the ammeter bypass and it eliminated that problem for one car. The usual fix before that was to take off the battery cables and put them back on, and the car would start...

@70bigblockdodge nailed it. I have headers and I'm happy with them on my smog '77 440 with .484 cam and 3" pipes. It sounds great. But I also have the 2.5" pipes from my log manifold 383, it's a little more quiet, still sounds good when you get on it. The headers are not necessary, but I'd do it...

His prices are the same year round.

Yep, you remove the screw/bolt that the filler tube attaches to on the body, push it in slightly to clear, drop the tank and then pull out the fuller tube. They sell new tank grommets.

I installed tti headers in my '67 Polara, and had no issues with transmission lines or anything else on the driver's side. My out of whack stub frame required the use of shims on the passenger side. The replacement idler arm had a grease zert that hit, so I took it off. Other than that, they fit...