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No, it should stay running.

I had a similar situation years back...turned out to be a broken wire that plugged into the field connector. Patched that and I was good to go thereafter.

Correct- Option L41 Safeguard Sentinel was one of the things that no longer was available after the Imperial line was dropped.

The pics you provided are such that I cannot help...I cannot tell if the wires there are from the brake switch (should be purple and white with blue and blue with red trace for the Cruise function.

75 Imperials could be ordered with the trailer towing package from the factory. Code A35:

Off hand I'd say she's running rich...so much so that you're fouling plugs, which could be the intermittent popping you're hearing. I'd quickly pop off the cap and make sure nothing is bent and then start by pulling cleaning and re-gapping & re-installing the plugs and listen for the...

Electric choke control is an electric aid to heat up the bimetallic coil and get idle faster when warming from cold Being that it is an aid, it is not mandatory to hook it up, just will take longer to get idle, because bimetallic coil will still be heated up by the manifold heat source.

His pic was the original LB Distributor that has 2 pick ups (start and run cct.).

If you're confident you're not 180 out, then start dialing in the timing, because it sounds like its way off. One time when I did a LB conversion I bought one of those "all in one" conversion kits and it was backfiring and carrying on...so bad that it split the muffler completely down the...

FSM is far more detailed than the owners manual. Glad it was a simple fix!

The window lift relay is powered by fuse #2 (5amp) this gives ignition switch power to energize the relay when the key is turned. May just be a bad fuse. Check there and report back.

Will do, stand by. For some reason I doubt a broken wire and the issue is probably somewhere else.

I can break out my FSM and look if you need.

Broken wire? Did you check for continuity?

Thanks for posting this! I agree that it's nice to hear of success stories! Once I tear into my 68 (which was converted to electronic ignition with the normal needed splices) I will probably get a new harness fabbed up. By the way you meant yo say P,D,C, Y Car lines, not bodies...no such thing...

cbarge, When you did this conversion, did you include the fender mount signal lights? Do they make LED replacements for those bulbs too? I know that those can be a PITA to swap.

Nuts working fine on all of my rebuilds.

When this happened to me, it was the starter relay.

In my experience those are "wiggle and pull". Keep at it, is all I can say...

The 100 amp alternator (like below) came out in 75 with the arrival of the grid rear defrost. 74s still had 65-ish amp alternators stock, but I've seen a few with the 75 100 amp set up retrofitted with the appropriate bracketry...including one I owned. The harnesses appeared to have been the...