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By the way when the system is functioning, it's quite impressive. Example, One cool morning I had the car (77 T&C) set to "Vent" and the temp swing arm all the way to the left or 65 and noted that there was no fan action...I immediately panicked and thought that the Autotemp II gremlins had...

To be clear: AutoTemp II version 1.0 with the under hood servo/ coolant combo assembly ended in 73; AutoTemp II next gen, 2.0 whatever was 74-78, included separation of the leaky underhood assembly by putting the servo inside the car on the heater box. For years (literally) I struggled with...

That is the Autotemp servo/ coolant valve. The original plastic ones often cracked and leaked...Mercedes used the same system and the new pricey re-pops are aluminum and solve most issues.

The fan is triggered by vacuum switches. Sometimes people get the vacuum lines backwards on the coffee can under the hood which will cut off all vacuum and kill the system as it's a one way valve. (purple plastic line and black rubber) Maybe give that a quick check to see if it helps...

Yes the Formals had AutoTemp II 2.0 as it were. The fuselage underhood servo watervalve combo thing did not work out well because Mopar cheaped out on the materials which quickly led to leaky non functioning systems. The 2.0 version of Auto Temp II that was in the Formals sought to remedy those...

Thanks for posting this...things for us hobbyists to look for when these cars have been converted/ already messed with. The original compressor would have been an RV2.

Commando1...don't bother...he'll just get defensive, claim you're a "stock numbers matching guy" and tell you to "bite me" like above. Brags about the expensive stainless rockers, then demands a cheap solution to his heat issues and he's not even running a thermostat. I'm having flashbacks to...

FYI, the resistor block is on the airbox under the dash facing the passenger compartment around about the center.

The next time your temp gauge "spikes" look at the other gauges and see if they are doing the same thing. Indicates that the instrument cluster bi-metallic voltage regulator is dying. Solid state replacements are available. Not to say that the effort you're putting into the cooling system...

Unless it was modified...which is likely given: 1) the age; 2) location in Europe where modifications often get done due to scarcity of parts; 3) the fact that his system is missing parts and has likely been messed with already. You are correct the blower motor is the same for H41, H51, H53.

I stand corrected...your car has no AC at all if the dash control and plaque are any indication (H41)...losing my sight LOL! Or else I'm getting confused with the different plaques being shown. Your car however has the dash vents as if it were an AC car...a modification done by swapping the...

The fact that your car is an import model is immaterial. Either it is ATC or it is not. Yours is not (H51 vs H53). Both systems use the same blower motor...the only difference between the systems is how the blower motor speed is controlled. Obviously something is missing from your heater box...

Is your car ATC or not? Regardless, the air box on your car appears to be broken. In that spot on my car is a housing with a vacuum pot and air door as part of the ATC system.

If the blower motor is bad. The car must be jacked up, tire removed, inner fender removed, brace removed in order to access and replace blower motor.

Need more info...is it Autotemp? What setting was it on? Vent? Defrost? What was the outside temperature differential? Once I panicked because the air stopped flowing through the vents one morning. Turns out my autotemp sensed the outside temp was what I wanted the inside temp to be, so it...

Beautiful Imperial...I'm glad whitewalls are on your list. They did not use redwalls on Imperials- always a whitewall with an Imperial.

Yes.

As mentioned, these systems (like most AC systems of the 70's) use a lot of vacuum to get things done.Since the coffee canister appears to function, next is an inspection of ALL the vacuum lines for correct routing and valve function, and leaks. As safeforwardlook mentioned, there are check...

The canister has a check valve on it, so you're only supposed to get vacuum on one side for proper system activation.

Most of the Autotemp is actually straight forward and similar to non ATC. i.e. It uses lots of vacuum lines to open/ close doors etc. I find that the "voodoo" is in the black box called the amplifier (pic below). Most blame the servo, but other than the 70-73 plastic version cracking problem, I...