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Sir, you are gifted! Although you no doubt have earned well your retirement, I cannot help but feel sad that the hobby is lessened by that retirement. Incredible. Well done again!

When can I book in my Imperial ? LOL! Seriously, good for you!

Unbolt the wiper arm assemblies from the wiper motor...then remove them to work on them...then slide them back in as a repaired assembly. The button part I was referring to is the "male" rounded part of the arm that the plasitc bushing sits on as opposed to the flat part the bushing slides...

Put the bushings in boiling water to make them nice and pliable. Pop the mushroom heads through the rods first, then insert the metal "button" into the bushing and push....you will feel it pop in. If it's still stubborn, a pair of channel locks can be used to squeeze them together. No hammering...

Sounds like you moved something that brightened up a corroded connection/ re-established connectivity in a loose connection.

I hope your push rod for the fuel pump is okay...I had this happen, where I replaced the fuel pump but still had fuel delivery issues...turned out to be the rod.

Those older power windows with the spring gear heads last forever. The later cheapo puck design was not nearly as good. I always look for those gear heads and use them whenever possible. Great job documenting the electric motor side of the rebuild. This thread should be made permanent for...

I would try unbolting them and ease the glass down with them.

In the interest of showing original tops, here's my 68 Imperial. Original green, mostly shredded, top but you can still make out how it extends down the side on the bow. I appreciate this detail as I'm new to convertibles and I'll make sure this is duplicated when I get a new top done.

Hmmm, never seen a "mock lock" those locks were rarely used and as you surmise, seized over time.

Looks like the rim that lives behind the 71 SFGT Special trim ring and black dome is an argent painted road wheel without the slots cut in it. Always wondered about that...

No Formal glass at all; When you click on Cordoba glass, I get an error; There is a gap in Imperial for 67/68, not tragic, because I think Imperial used C body glass these years...missed opportunity I guess; The pic for Imperial 69-73 is a Mercury Marquis convertible (I thought that was amusing).

No. A non HP Chysler 300 would have nothing...just a black air cleaner lid. That decal you have started in 72? ...something like that.

If you have a station wagon, you need to pray that your fuel tank is in good shape...I know of no new tanks available for wagons.

They are made from masticated rubber and are re-popped in the aftermarket (thankfully) for our C bodies: RH and LH rubber splash seals for the inner fenders of 1967-71 Plymouth Fury; 1967-71 Dodge Monaco - Polara and all 1967-71 Chrysler

Well, Canadian soil in this case...

That's a shame...

I know a lot of folks have trouble with TQs (for some reason I never have), but they work great with today's crap fuel...that phenolic bowl DOES make a difference. I have both types of carb and Edelbrock suffers from heak soak on hot starts, whereas my TQ just fires up effortlessly.

Are the fuel lines okay? I had pinholes in a fuel line that would suck air and gave me fits in trying to diagnose the low power problems it gave me. There was no leak (puddle) the lines were just wet looking in spots and I really had to search to find the issue. Replaced the lines with new steel...

The Formal Imperial/ 76-78 NYB cornering lenses are not multi colored...there are 2 lenses, one orange, glued into the clear. They can be separated with patience without breaking them.