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You “might” have the little valve (name?) on top of the steering box off a little. There’s some type of fix where you just loosen it slightly and tap on it moderately so it “re-centers”. Apparently there’s a small fluid hole between the box and that little valve that can get off-center, which...

Wheels - local salvage yard Tires - Cooper or BF Goodrich (?) T/A Radials

See above. The castle nut only works if the new idler arm bolt has a hole for the cotter pin

And make sure you don't use basic "auto parts store" O-rings or they will leak in a few days (ask me how I know). I got a set from firm feel or flaming river or ??? some steering box specialist company and it hasn't leaked since on mine.

Replace it.....why mess around?

Geez, so for me, the odd bolt pattern makes adapting the anti-lock brake system to my car a no-go since it would require custom (or shortened) axles. Thanks for the info ImpJay!

Very interesting! Wow, so why was the sure brake system dropped? Is it know for having problems? Also, do you have any idea if the sure brake rotors/drums would be compatible with '70 b-body? I've got '73+ front rotors with the larger diameter inner wheel bearing (A-body spindles/old school...

So, what exactly is happening with your parking brake? a) the pedal doesn't move down? b) the pedal moves down, but doesn't lock into position? c) the pedal moves down & locks into position, but the car still rolls in neutral? d) something else?

OK, I beg forgiveness for being a b-body guy.... ANTI-LOCK BRAKES???? Is that one of those early systems that just worked on the back wheels? I have never seen/heard of this before. If possible, I would LOVE to increase safety in my car for cross-country trips since I'm not a "numbers guy"...

Dang.... if worse comes to worse you could just grind down to bare metal & weld in a piece of plate steel since it's the bottom piece of the frame that's rusted (assuming you can get to it all)

Whoops.... it's @moparmarks at FBBO (and "s" at the end). If the frame is bad on the driver's side, then it may have had a battery burst years ago dumping acid down into the frame rail. I've heard this isn't that rare.

Dude...you ARE high-tech. I was just going to cut a short piece of angle iron with a dull hack saw :lol:

That's more high-tech than a pair of vise grips and a hammer...… and cheap to build too. Nice!

I think you should buy 2 of those links from PST & replace both at the same time. For your frame, you might find an aftermarket patch here at Safe-T-Cap https://www.autorust.com/safe-t-cap-kits/ Or you could try @moparmark over at for www.forbbodiesonly.com. He has a TON of rust-free Mopar...