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Once they go on, dont you leave them on? You don’t have to remove them to take the wheel off, correct? If you are worried about rust, maybe put a bit of synthetic grease or anti seize on the “fingers“ of the rings so when it scratches the paint there is some protection to the bare metal.

Aren’t the rubber ends just dust covers anyway? Can‘t you reuse your old ones? IMHOP, Forget the rebuild, @mobileparts has the whole unit new in box for a lot less than the time and money to fix. I rebuilt the rears on my ‘70 and they still leaked, the new ones from Craig took 10 minutes to...

I can’t speak for older years, but my ‘70 300 convertible has a straight shaft column, while my ‘70 coupe has a rag joint. I thought it had to do with the fact that my coupe has the torsion quiet isolated stub frame, and my convertible has the solid mount frame. Convertible column: But, I...

This was a Ford dealership.

Even though it took about 15 minutes, the shop charged me the full hour, $120, and that was about 5 years ago.

Looks like a good fit. I would like to see a follow up after a season of driving. Torsion bar boots don’t see the demands of flexibility that ball joints go through. I hope it works out for you, I hate to trash a good set of ball joints just because of a bad boot.

Why do you want to delete the isolator?

Hard to say. Everything I’ve done to my project I’ve done myself, even if I’ve never done it before, there are plenty of tutorials out there. I think I spent about a week of on and off work doing mine. I think that’s what it took Gary to do from the link I posted. I would say it is no more...

There is a sticky post right at the top of the brakes forum: Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion Please, please, please give this a read through. NO way in H-E double hockey sticks is this conversion worth $4K on a C body.

Never had a problem with Rock Auto, as long as you know what you are looking at and the brand you are getting, I generally buy new not rebuilt. Cardone on the other hand is junk as stated above, not even worth the weight in scrap.

Thanks, I guess I'll find out how well I did when I go to line up my fenders and hood next week, lol.

I’ve removed and installed a few of them, they are bolt—up parts, I’ve never seen any adjustments.

I guess I don't get it, what's wrong with the way the stub is connected now? Perhaps these developers should spend this time and energy on creating correct, affordable patch panels for all the rust buckets out there....

A small gear puller or pickle fork to remove the pitman arm from the linkage. However I remember finding it more difficult to remove the pitman arm from the steering box after it was removed. The bolt is torqued to 150 foot pounds and was a very large nut, I had to buy a large impact socket...

Wow, all I did was measure the bushing and found something close from the Dorman “Help!” rack. From what I remember, they were in two parts, not the one piece NOS variety. I think I paid $5 for two. Seems to work fine, but time will tell.

I used good old fashioned regular shocks on the front and they were damn near impossible with the stub out of the car and suspension partially disassembled. Good luck.

After two bad reman units I went with a new Raybestos from Rock Auto.

Wow, this might have to do with the shorter Fury stub frame, but I have no experience with pre-fusie C's, hopefully someone will chime in. What is the length of the rag extension, the part the mates with the PS box? Can you post some pics?

Wasn’t @DocMcNeedy thinning his herd? Or was he just into 4 doors?