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I actually used a combination of nos and good used pieces. The Y pipe and tail pipe with resonator were nos. eBay seller fast_eddies_mopars has the tailpipe and resonator he might also know where to get a Y pipe. I got the measurements of the muffler from the FSM and then searched available...

I 2nd out the back with the stock turndowns…..

Interesting. Of course it backfired several times during the initial start up....

Thanks, without the airflow this is all making sense now. You can see from this pic that the fit of the exhaust wouldn’t allow for much more clearance from the floors. I’m guessing with the addition of the FatMat I won’t be burning anyone up under normal driving conditions. Thanks all!

So that is odd to see! Actually, that's a whole new exhaust from front to back, and the floor has been coated with silver por15 for the past few years, that's why it was so noticeable. I will be using the FatMat anyway, but I think I need another barrier underneath. I'll have to get under...

So I was cleaning up a bit after running the motor for the first time and I noticed this funky discoloration where the rear seat would be, just over the muffler. That must have been a lot of heat, I’m wondering if there is supposed to be a heat shield over the muffler at that point to prevent...

I left mine in place, frozen and all, but have been told that once the motor goes through a few heat cycles it might loosen up and rattle around. I can't imagine paying $55 for a small spring, I honestly don't know if that would stop the rattling. Someone here must have an extra spring lying...

Oh gosh, I thought it was because I posted the question.... Thank you all for your help! I will leave it as is so it looks visually original! :thankyou:

That makes sense, heating and cooling cycles might do the trick.

Ha! That's worth doing just to see it work!

That’s what I was thinking too, but then there is that OCD thing that Stan mentions. So, what is the best way to free it up, just in case I wanted to?

Yes, that’s what my problem is, I’ve been determined to get all the parts working even if it means it’ll do more harm than good. That’s why this build is going on year 10, lol.

Yeah, it’s pretty much frozen solid, but you never know. I’m afraid if I did free it up it might cause more problems than it’s worth. The one you got from me, did that one leak or did it fix the issue? I think that one was stuck too.

Just as the title says. I’d love to get it to work, but after a week of soaking, it doesn’t budge. All the parts look decent and the springs are still functioning. Has anyone ever gotten these to free up, or is it just cut and weld? It is stuck in the open position, so without any other...

I’m going single exhaust as well, just like it was from the factory. I’ve thought about the duals with hp manifolds, but the added expense and potential louder exhaust while cruising makes it impractical. I agree with th above, stay away from chain stores, they pretty much only know how to...

Thanks, that makes sense now. I'll have to mate up the flange of the Y pipe to decide which one will work.

2582484 or 464, hard to tell.

Thanks guys, I'll focus my attention on the one with the round counter weight. The one on the right came off of the '69 motor, but I don't believe it has the original heads either. My concern is that the flanges match up with the NOS Y pipe I have.

I have two sets of standard exhaust manifolds, both sets should fit a 440. The driver's sides are the same, but which one of the passenger's side would be correct for 1970? Not only do the mechanicals look different, but the flange is pointed in a different direction as well.

Thanks, Dave. I'm actually running non-HP logs and single exhaust, I can't imagine there being much difference from the 1970 440 to the April 1972 440. As it is, the pipe looks like it runs down he right (correct) side for my 300 but I wanted to make sure before I buy it: